He Who Travels

New Website Address

2010-04-15T21:15:00.001-07:00

Hewhotravels has now moved to http://www.hewhotravels.com.

This website will no longer be updated. Thanks!

Spring Cleaning - Food Porn

2010-04-12T18:37:00.000-07:00

Found under my bed, a stash of food pornography circa 2001. Issue 1, No. 1 of Gastronomica plus a few other issues from the 2000's. Things like Gastronomica are why Kindle and iPad will never replace print publications: there is something kinesthetically-satisfying about lifting the printed page. Take in Lya Lys caught in a sensuous frame from Luis Buñuel's L'Age D'Or on the cover. Learn how Ferran Adrià makes soup. Where else can you read about Sicilian cheese in medieval Arab recipes along with a page from the original 14th century cookbook?

I'm not sure when I stopped getting Gastronomica. But I have to restart my subscription!

Heston Blumenthal - Black Forest Cake

2010-04-11T17:13:00.000-07:00

Planet Green has just started airing episodes of In Search of Perfection, a BBC television series from 2006 that features Heston Blumenthal's search for perfection in various forms of food. Really wonderfully-produced series, and you get the definite sense of the creativity that drives the chef. I'm surprised by his pejorative description of "molecular gastronomy" which he disavows any connection with, "I take a different approach to food. People have called it molecular gastronomy, but I disagree. I just like to think its good old fashioned cookery, but with a bit of science thrown in for good measure."

This week, Heston tackles the formidable Black Forrest Gateau. Of course, this requires a requisite trip to the Black Forrest to sample an authentic cake from its source, after which he reflects, "It might be one of the most difficult things I've ever tried to do, thinking about it!"

The secret: it's all about the Kirsch!

Orson @ SF

2010-03-17T17:28:00.000-07:00

Another wonderful lab lunch on the sun-soaked terrace of Madera restaurant at the Rosewood hotel in Menlo park! During lunch, my research assistant Abby mentioned that she recently had dinner at Orson, Elizabeth Falkner's new place in San Francisco. Definitely added to my "must try" list. Predictably, the desserts were not good. Abby actually didn't finish hers, "dry" is what she called it. I've never been a fan of Falkner's desserts at Citizen cake, the cakes and pastries are definitely dry, at least all three times I've been there to try them. However, I've always enjoyed her cooking, which is ironic because she is best known for her pastry work.

Per Se @ NYC

2010-03-14T18:01:00.000-07:00

The remarkable thing about Per Se, is not that it exists in what is essentially a giant shopping mall. The remarkable thing is that you are taken back to Yountville, for a moment, as you gaze at Central Park amid the craziness that is New York.

The Salmon Cornet is what tugs at the taste-memory. I still remember because I managed to drop mine on the table in Yountville on my first visit to French Laundry in 2002. The rest of my table of eight waited anxiously while the waiter rushed to the kitchen to get me another. Yum.

Things went considerably more smoothly this meal. After a weekend of heavy meals, and expensive ones (I had dined at Masa the previous night), I was having second thoughts about making it to my Per Se reservation. Staying at the Mandarin Oriental helped. I hopped out of bed and into the dining room within minutes.

The highlights of the meal were the Romaine Lettuce Veloute, the Atlantic Fluke, and the Truffle Custard: pure clean flavors with twist, whether it be delicate cubes of Meyer Lemon flesh unexpectedly at the bottom of the bowl of veloute, the cold white flesh of the Atlantic Fluke against cold avacado ice cream, or the single chive leaf laminated between two paper-thin potato sheaths tucked upright into a rich and unctous Truffle Custard.

The best part of the meal was the end. I was given a tour of Per Se's massive kitchen, which is actually three or four kitchens. They have a main kitchen that has the garde-manger, hot lines, etc. However, they also have an equally-large back kitchen for prep work, a fully-staffed 24-hour bakery, a pastry kitchen, and even a chocolate room where they make all their own molded chocolates.

As a final reminder of Per Se's connection to French Laundry, I was shown a large plasma television mounted to the wall in front of the Chef, conveying a live video feed of the French Laundry kitchens back at Yountville. Now if they would only patch that through to the Food Network: imagine what you could learn!

Salmon cornets
Romain Lettuce "Veloute" - Hakurei Turnips and Meyer Lemon
"Oysters and Pearls" - "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar.
Tartare of Atlantic Fluke - Hass Avacado, Pickled Jalapeño and Petite Cilantro with Lime Coulis

White Truffle Oil-Infused Custard - "Ragoût" of Black Winter Truffles
"Pressé" of 24 Carrot Farm's Rabbit "En Persillade" - "Ragoût" of Rancho Gordo Pole Beans, Pickled Garlic and Celery Branch Salad with Horseradish Jus
Crazy selection of salts available for tasting.
Two types of butter.

Main Diver Se Scallop - "Fondue de Ris de Veau, "Braised Swiss Chard, Granny Smith Apples and Black Winter Truffles

Elysian Fields Farm's "Côte D'Agneau" - Wilted Arrowleaf Spinach, Hadley Orchards' Medjool Date Purée and Greenmarket Carrots with Madras Curry Emulsion
Coffee and Doughnuts - Cinnamon-Sugard Doughnuts with Cappuccino "Semifreddo"
"Mont Blanc" - Chesnut "Génois," Swiss Meringue, Chocolate-Juniper "Crémeux," Rum Parfai and "Marron Glacé with Chocolate Ice Cream
The most delicious Pot de Creme, ever!
Small sampling of house-made chocolates chosen from an enormous tray.
More housemade candies.

Eleven Madison Park @ NYC

2010-03-12T13:32:00.000-08:00

Dinner at Eleven Madison Park started with Gougères and a glass of Rosé champagne.
Amouse bouche.
Trying too hard here. Spherified salmon with caviar. Why would you do this to perfectly good salmon. The spherification adds nothing. I bet they had to extract out (or emulsify) some of the fat so that it would spherify correctly--fat has the flavor here!
Everglades Frogs’ Legs
Sautéed with Parsley and Porcini Custard
Foie Gras
Terrine with Golden Pineapple, Pickled Pearl Onions and Rum Raisin Brioche

This was a disappointment.
Scottish Langoustine
Poached with Cauliflower, Toasted Almonds and Raisins

Milk Fed Veal
Braised Cheeks with Celery Root and Black Truffles

“Soda Pop”
Tangerine, Grapefruit, Pomelo and Lemon

Milk & Chocolate
Variations of Flavor and Texture

Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués - Opening Review

2010-03-05T12:40:00.000-08:00

Please click here to view the video review.

Overview

Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués is an intimate luxury pool-villa resort built on the cliffs overlooking Acapulco, Mexico.

Design

The resort has architecturally Asian themes that are typical of Banyan Tree resorts, such as the Asian-style pavilion design. As in Mayakoba (Banyan Tree’s other resort in Playa del Carmen) they have incorporated traditional Mexican elements in the handiwork and crafts displayed in the public areas.

Arrival

We were picked up at the airport by a private car we arranged with the resort. The airport itself is very small and easy to navigate. Our luggage was taken quickly and we were whisked away in a very comfortable Escalade, with cold towels and water available.

I have not been to Acapulco before, perhaps because I associate the locale more with cruise ships rather than a luxury resort destination. The geography of the area is interesting to me. As we descended into Acapulco, I could see vast stretches of sandy beaches. However, the area we entered as we approached the hotel resembled in many ways what I imagine the Amalfi coast might have looked like if it hadn’t been developed until modern times and had palm trees. The resort is literally built on cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. At night, the coast twinkles with lights in the way Positano looks at dusk. It really is a captivating setting.

Lobby

The lobby area is smaller than Mayakoba, but appropriately reflects the scale of a resort with only 45 villas. Where Mayakoba feels grand, Cabo Marqués feels exclusive and unique. The first “wow” moment you encounter is the blue horizon of the ocean peaking through the lobby and pulling you toward the welcome pavilion with its endless views of the Pacific Ocean. Here, we were offered a welcome drink called tuba, which is a type of fermented beverage made from palm juices.

Resort

The resort’s public areas include a welcome/reception area and pavillion, the Visitas bar on the top level and La Nao restaurant on the lower level of the main building. La Nao spills outside to a terrace and ends where the pool area begins. There is a large infinity pool that provides dramatic views of the cliff-side villas and the Pacific Ocean.

In an adjacent pavilion there is also a Thai restaurant, Saffron, that will open soon. The chef flew in from Thailand a few days ago. There is also a fitness center and spa pavillion. I did not have an opportunity to visit the spa. We had a spa pavilion in our villa where we could receive treatments instead. At the far end of the resort is Las Rochas, an ocean-front restaurant built overlooking the dramatic rock formations that occur at the base of the resort. They are in the process of building a small sand beach for guests who wish to enjoy some sun and sand at ocean-level. The beach area is adjacent to a very rocky area and so will not be suitable for swimming in the ocean.

Getting around the resort involves negotiating narrow roads built into the hillside on a golf cart. Guest can walk the paths as well, but due to the very steep nature of some of the hills, I would recommend calling for a cart to take you any distance more than a few hundred yards. Las Rochas was certainly walkable from our villa, but we would not have dared to walk to La Nao in the main Pavilion from our villa–that would have been too much exertion for our leisurely stay.

Spa Pool Villa

There are five spa pool villas on property. They can be recognized by their three pavilion roofs: one for the main villa, one for the pool cabana, and one for the spa pavilion that provides two massage tables and equipment to perform spa service in your villa. There is an extra bathroom and shower in the spa pavilion.

Each villa is slightly different given the diverse terrain in this hillside resort. The villas are definitely smaller than those at Mayakoba, and there is a good reason: they are built on stilts! Because the villas are built into the hillside, you really do have unparalleled views of the coast and ocean.

We entered our villa by taking three flights of stone stairs down to the villa itself. In the middle is a heated infinity pool (heated to almost hot-tub temperatures, definitely comfortably warm at all times!). The spa pool villas in Mayakoba have hot-tubs, but the pools themselves are unheated. I did much prefer the heated pools here in Cabo Marqués. They are fantastic!

The infinity pool has an adjacent wooden deck that supports two outside sofa/daybeds for lounging as well as a dining table to take meals al fresco. And, you will definitely want to take your meals outside by the pool. Having breakfast everyday while watching the sunrise is simply a must!

The Spa pavillion has a separate bathroom and two massage tables that enjoy dramatic ocean iews.

The main villa itself opens to dramatic views of the Pacific Ocean and the Acapulco coast. Above the bed is a central vaulted ceiling that has accent lighting at night. There is a work desk that was surprisingly well stocked with a plethora of stationary supplies that I certainly appreciated (I always do a little work while I’m away, even here in Acapulco!). Even though this is definitely a leisure resort, I really did appreciate the free wifi and convenient power outlet access throughout the villa for my laptop. Sitting in bed, looking at the ocean views, hearing the ocean hit the shore while surfing Flyertalk–what could be better?

The villa has an iHome iphone/ipod music player and flat panel television (that we never used). There were three telephones in the room: a wireless model at the desk, one at the bedside and another in the commode. The bed itself is very comfortable, and the pillows and bedding are very high quality.

The bathroom was well-stocked with an amenity kit that contained dental and shaving kits, mouthwash, nail kit, sewing kit and lotion. Noticeably absent from the bathroom were Q-tips and cotton balls. Four robes are provided, two heavy bathrobes, and two lighter evening robes.

The shower itself is a rainshower type, with very hot water at good pressure.

The bathtub filled very quickly and was very nice to enjoy in the evenings looking out at the ocean. Unfortunately, the shower did not have a steam function as is found in Mayakoba.

The commode was adequate. I will comment that there is considerable noise that is made with each flush.

Each villa has a daybed with ocean views. The windows can be opened to let in the ocean breezes, however we opted to enjoy the cooler air-conditioned air during our stay.

Food & Beverage

I was nervous about the F&B at BT–CM, mainly because I’m a picky eater. Driving through the Cabo Marqués complex (like Mayakoba, the Cabo Marqués development is a secured residential complex), I didn’t see any obvious luxury dining options. And, I wasn’t a big fan of the spa cuisine offered at Tamarind when Banyan Tree Mayakoba first opened. Was I going to starve? Luckily, I enjoyed some really wonderful meals! I was very pleasantly surprised.

La Nao Lunch and Dinner

The La Nao restaurant is named after the large trading vessels that took supplies from Mexico back to the Orient. I was surprised to learn that there is a long history of links between Mexico and Asia from the 1500’s when Spanish Galleons would sail from the Philippines and the Chinese mainland to bring back spices and other goods.

The cuisine at La Nao definitely respects the local culture and has a wide offering of Mexican dishes, sometimes with an Asian twist. There were some standout dishes, including the soft shell crab tacos, the duck confit tostadas, and the mole tamales. Seafood also seems to be a specialty of the region, owing to its costal location. We enjoyed fresh fish dishes each evening, the salmon, seabass and scallop ceviche were all quite excellent. I did have a tuna dish that I didn’t quite like, mainly because I had tuna the previous night before coming the Banyan Tree and I think my palate wanted something different. The fish itself seemed properly cooked.

The dessert selections were about average, what you might expect from resort cuisine. I’m very picky about sweets though, I really could have been a pastry chef in a former life. The crème brulé and crepes Suzette were all quite serviceable. But, desserts at Twist, this was not!

My overall impression of La Nao is that the menu is pretty good, with some excellent dishes. Even though Saffron and Las Rochas were not open, La Nao managed to provide me with three days-worth of meals and I was not bored at all!

In-villa Dining

In-villa dining will be quite important during a stay at Cabo Marqués. You really won’t want to leave your villa for the first few days at least. I didn’t want to get dressed and go up for dinner one evening and we elected to have in-villa dining bring us our dinner. We wanted some healthy American food, so we opted for hamburgers and pizza! Yes, very healthy (and tasty) indeed! The thin-crust pizza came with Mexican sausage, and the hamburger came with a very unique Oxacan cheese. Yummy!

Breakfasts are wonderful to take in villa and I highly suggest that you do as many times as you can. The experience of taking a beautiful plate of fresh fruit, pancakes, and Muesli while gazing at the beautiful ocean in the morning sun was breathtaking.

Our final night we enjoyed the in-villa barbeque. I had enjoyed the experience at Banyan Tree Mayakoba and was eager to repeat the experience here. The staff brought a grill down the stone stairs into our villa where they set a beautiful table by the pool and lit the coals until they glowed red. A red snapper was presented, which was then grilled while we enjoyed our salads. They found squash blossoms and added them to a beautiful asparagus and fennel salad. A very unique watermelon salad was presented sashimi style, cut into bite-sized blocks and garnished on four sides with black sesame seeds. A play on seared tuna salad, I’m sure. Very fun, and delicious.

The grilled snapper was served with a variety of salsa garnishes, hand-made tortillas and a selection of grilled vegetables. This was followed by grilled pork chops that were marinated in a red chili sauce that was flavorful and mild.

A simple selection of Mexican-style petit fours was served on a three-tiered platter, including peanut brittle, marzipans and a local coconut macaroon like confection. A selection of tropical fruits completed the meal.

Service Assessment

I was here on a pre-opening stay, so there were some areas of the resort still undergoing finishing touches. Overall, I found the service generally to be excellent, but this might also be due the fact that there are very few guests at the resort right now and what happens when the resort opens to higher capacity may not reflect my experiences. Therefore, please understand that my comments about service reflect the fact that the resort isn’t running at 100% capacity yet.

About eight of the staff at Cabo Marqués came from Mayakoba, while the rest are ostensibly new hires. I was very much impressed by the level of service during my entire stay. Pancho Llamas, the GM from Mayakoba and David Cayela, the GM of Cabo Marqués were both very present on property my entire stay and they both made me feel extremely welcomed. Indeed, there is very much a sense of pride from all the staff in the opening of this resort, and we received personalized welcomes and greetings from the F&B director, front-house manager and La Nao restaurant manager and chef during our stay. The chef came to our table several times during our stay to ask how we enjoyed the cuisine.

At the same time, privacy and discretion seem to be very apparent as well. At the pool, my cabana was set up within moments and then the pool attendant disappeared allowing me to enjoy the infinity pool in seclusion. Yet, the moment I stepped out of the pool, he was back to wrap me in a huge beach towel.

Housekeeping was also functioning at a very high level. Clothes were folded and placed neatly away. Shoes were put away in the closet. The chambermaid took the time and effort to lay down small towels next to each sink, where our toothbrushes, combs and other accessories were very neatly organized. Turndown service, in Banyan Tree tradition, included fresh flowers and a small gift. Toilet paper was even folded every service and turndown (a pet peeve of mine that shows attention to detail, and a first in a long line of recent stays that included Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas and Crosby Street hotel).

I was greeted by name by the telephone receptionist and staff throughout the resort–even staff I had never previously met such as other buggy drivers we passed on the road while we were being driven around the resort. I was repeatedly asked (in an unobtrusive manner) how I liked my stay and if there was anything additional they could provide for my enjoyment.

One example of a thoughtful extra by the staff was a digital photo they took of us at our in-villa barbeque our last night. At checkout, we were presented with a framed photo of the occasion and a card on the back signed by the F&B director and her staff. A tangible memory of a special night!

The only significant critique of my entire stay at the resort is that some of the waiters need to acquire better English skills, especially to help answer guests’ questions about he menu. We accidentally ordered a vegetarian dish that we did not want, because we misunderstood the conversation. However, this is a problem that should be addressable with further training.

Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués is dedicating the month of March to a pre-opening phase where their staff can practice and perfect their service on other employees and invited guests. As I was one of the first guests to arrive at the resort, I can tell you that a month of further practice should perfect what is already excellent service. The question shall be if they can maintain that level of service in the face of higher occupancy levels. If Mayakoba is any indicator, I feel strongly that the answer will be yes. Banyan Tree Cabo Marqués is an exciting new resort that will appeal to couples seeking a private, romantic tropical getaway in a breathtaking coastal setting. For me, there is now a compelling reason to go to Acapulco.

Pluses

Intimate coastal landscape;
Privacy inherent in an intimate pool-villa setting;
Gorgeous ocean views that do not end;
F&B excellent, especially Mexican dishes (soft shell crab tacos and the tamales are a must);
Overall excellent, personalized service with an attention to detail;
Heated in-villa pools

Minuses

Golf carts are needed to transfer from Villas to main areas of the resort owing to the steep Cliffside nature of the resort.
I do not think this resort would be suitable for families (unless the Presidential villa is taken)–this resort seems ideally suited for couples.
Villas are notably smaller than those at Mayakoba, and they are all single-pavillion except for Spa Pool villas that have a spa pavilion.
Small beach that isn’t suitable for swimming. This isn’t at all a concern for me. However, those seeking to open their front door and plant both feet firmly in sand will do well to look elsewhere. That said, the resort is working on arrangements to provide private beach service for guests at a neighboring property.
Fewer nearby cultural activities or excursions compared to Playa del Carmen. This may be relevant for longer stays where guests may consider excursions off property. My understanding is that the resort is in the process of developing daytrip excursions to nearby cultural sites.

About Me (Because people ask)
I’m a regular person. I’m a professional in my thirties who enjoys luxury travel. I do not work in the hotel or hospitality industries. I write reviews for my own enjoyment. The resorts and hotels I review don’t know that I have a blog or that I write reviews. I don’t get paid by hotels or resorts to write reviews. If I occasionally receive upgrades or invitations to resort openings it is because of my relationships with managers or GMs who know me as a regular person and valued guest at their properties. My photos aren’t altered or manipulated and I make my own videos. If they look good, it’s because I use a Mac—not because I’m any sort of professional PR person! I do not have a background in advertising or photography. The music I use in my videos is all by Kevin Macleod.

Happy luxury travels in 2010!

Amore Patisserie @ MO LV, Las Vegas

2010-02-24T13:16:00.001-08:00

The last time I was at the MO LV in January, I bought several pastries for A. who just gave birth to a beautiful baby girl (congrats A.!). When I returned today, I found these cupcakes, this one happens to be vanilla. The Red Velvet cupcake was not photographed because it was eaten too quickly. But it is authentically made with vinegar and cocoa powder. Astonishingly, the clerk not only remembered me, but remembered what I had ordered and who it was for. The service at the MO LV is truly amazing. Where do they find these people?

I do recommend you stop by Amore. Make sure to try their gelato: chocolate strawberry is highly recommended.

I'll have tap water please...

2010-02-24T12:38:00.000-08:00

Watch the Blue Gold documentary about the water wars. This is why I always ask for tap water at any restaurant in the United States (Obviously in other places I travel, such as Mexico, it simply is not an option). Don't be evil--don't drink bottled water unless you must.

At the same time, the documentary provides some fascinating evidence about the dangers of "virtual" water exports through the global agriculture trade. Support sustainable agriculture, buy local, and don't build a house where you can't drill a well (did you hear this, Las Vegas?).

Learn more at the Blue Gold website.

Twist @ MO LV - Second Visit

2010-02-23T19:15:00.001-08:00

My second visit to Twist was much more approachable than the tasting menu I enjoyed on my first visit--which I thoroughly enjoyed--but may be too adventurous for some eaters. For those eaters who are afraid of excessive innovation, I suggest the a la carte menu, for which there are excellent choices that should please everyone at the table.

Tuna Chantilly and Japanese rice cracker amuse bouche.
Bread is baked by Bon Breads Baking Company in Las Vegas.
The Scallops starter entree.

The fillet entree ordered a la carte from the tasting menu.

Gaignaire's pomme puree, not as rich as Robuchon's--which means you can eat more than a spoonful. Yum.
Fillet carpaccio stuffed with foie gras, on top of a beef Bolognese.
The fillet, perfectly cooked.
My waiter brought this dessert for me because I raved about it from the last tasting menu, even though I didn't order it. Yum!
The red ring dessert, almond on puff pastry and cream.
Bathroom break. Wow!
Meringues and cookies.

Lunch at Olives, Bellagio, Las Vegas

2010-02-23T19:15:00.000-08:00

I was trying to keep it light for lunch in anticipation of my dinner at Twist tonight. Todd English's Olives was the perfect choice. It has gotten mixed reviews in the past, but the location is perfect and I was feeling adventurous. I found that despite previous reviews of poor service, my server was excellent and the views of Lake Bellagio are wonderful. Definitely sit outside if you can.

I opted to start with the Beef carpaccio, which was surprisingly gigantically proportioned. The presentation could definitely scare a vegetarian, but don't let that scare you. The huge mound in the middle is a wonderfully-dressed salad with perfectly acid dressing to accompany the unctuous beef. There is tangy earthy cheese that adds complexity to the flavors. And, when you think you have dug through the dish, a square of perfectly pan-seared polenta reveals itself.

The perfect bite.
The shrimp scampi polenta was also very flavorful, and the garlic chips weren't at all bitter.

A great lunch, and value at $45.00.

Mugaritz Burns

2010-02-23T10:38:00.000-08:00

Darn. Mugaritz, Andoni Luis Aduriz's two Michelin-starred Basque-country restaurant has suffered a massive kitchen fire and closed. "The construction begins from the foundations," their website says.

Luckily, nobody was hurt. There is a relief fund for the stagieres' who lost their knives in the fire.

Carne Vino @ Palazzo, Las Vegas

2010-02-22T23:22:00.001-08:00

The house-made Pastrami is really excellent, especially when the yolk of the egg is broken and mixes with the meat juices to create an unctuous sauce with the butter lettuce. Yum!

The sweetbreads are not to be missed! Served on a bed of pureed parsnips and accompanied by sauteed mushrooms and a microgreen salad. Perhaps a little more acid on the salad or some citrus could help break through the richness of the deep-fried sweetbreads. I would have also loved a generous portion of shaved fennel. But this dish is about as close to Offal for the Masses as you can get: even Auntie Minnie from Kansas will love them--just don't tell her what they are!

Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas Dynasty Suite

2010-02-22T22:44:00.001-08:00

Here's a look at the Dynasty Suite at the MO LV, my new favorite hotel in Las Vegas. Enjoy!

Crosby Street Hotel Review (with Video!)

2010-02-21T04:32:00.001-08:00

(Click here to view video)

Crosby Street Hotel NYC Review (with Video!)

Overview
The Crosby Street Hotel (CSH) is located in New York’s SOHO area, within convenient walking distance to prime shopping areas and the Prince Street and Spring Street subway lines. It opened a little over four months ago, and was one of only sixteen properties in the world to receive one of Andrew Harper’s 2010 Grand Awards.

Design
Kit Kemp, is the owner (along with her husband Tim) of the Firmdale group of hotels, which are notable for their London properties, including the regarded Covent Garden and Charlotte Street Hotels. Kit is also the design director of the hotel, and has a unique contemporary English style. She was named the Andrew Martin International Designer of the year in 2008. The Crosby Street Hotel is Firmdale’s first US property.

The hotel is new construction, having been built on the site of a former parking lot. It is 12 stories tall, and has 86 rooms (two more than the Mercer). It has a fitness center and private screening theater. It does not have a pool.

Arrival
I arrived in the late afternoon by town car and was assisted immediately with my luggage. I was escorted to the front desk where I had to wait several minutes for service. I was helped by Jenny, who was very friendly and efficient. She is from the Charlotte Street property in London. Jenny provided me with vouchers for two complimentary cocktails or glasses of champagne at the Crosby bar and informed me that I had been upgraded one room category to a Deluxe room on the 8th floor of this 12 floor hotel.

Lobby
The lobby of the CSH is intimate and curated by Kit Kemp with an elegant and contemporary collection of artworks. The collection is eclectic with a modern steel sculpture of a human head made of letters of the alphabet by Jaume Plensa matched along side a paper lamp shaped like a dog. Kit must be a dog lover because dog portraits fill the public spaces, along side Warhol-esque portraits of the Queen.

Deluxe Room (350 square feet)
New York hotel rooms are small. I except that. CSH is no exception. My deluxe room was 350 square feet, but felt much larger due to the floor to ceiling windows that dramatically amplify the space. The room itself is well planned and functioned well during my two night stay.

Furnishings
Kit Kemp has said in interviews that she doesn’t work with a formula and that her work seeks to have a sense of quirkiness and fun. I have to admit I was a bit worried by photographs of the furnishings on the hotel’s website that portray the rooms with almost gaudy fluorescent colors. I have to say I was relieved to find the colors in real life are very pleasant and elegant. The furnishings are of exceedingly high quality and they do indeed provide a sense of surprise. A nightlight the shape of a dressmaker’s form must be Kitt’s homage to the fashionable shops that make SOHO their home.

Bathroom
The bathroom is very small, but well appointed. Fixtures are by the English firm Lefroy Brooks. I’ve never seen so much nickel and chrome polished to perfection. The shower is brisk if not brutally strong and instantly hot. The towel warmer keeps the bathroom comfortably toasty at all times. Amenities are house-branded Miller Harris.

Bathroom Amenities
Shower Gel
Hair Conditioner
Shampoo
Soap bar (two)
Lotion (two)
Hair Dryer
Bathrobes (two)

Work desk
The work desk is very small, but adequate for a laptop computer. I give a big plus for the bedside electrical outlets for iPhone/laptop chargers. I’m glad to see hotel designers incorporating these intelligent and thoughtful practical matters into their designs.

Turndown Service
Turndown service is rather basic, no mood music or mood video program is available or played. Toilet cover left up and TP was not foiled or folded.

Turndown Amenities
Voss 330 mL bottle of still water and glass at Bedside
10 ml bottle of Sleep Well aromatherapy spray

Service in General
The service in general was good, but not excellent. I attribute this to their new staff, but that may be generous on my part. The members of staff I encountered were previously from the Mercer and Mandarin Oriental hotels in NYC or one of Firmdale’s properties in London—ostensibly well trained. I will note Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas has achieved World-class service levels in a shorter period of time, so this is an area where Firmdale should strive to improve.

While the staff were very friendly, guest recognition by greeting was conspicuously absent. Nobody seemed to have bothered to remember me or my name. And I do love being greeted by name. Telephone service calls were also answered without greeting me by name, and several times they got my room number wrong (ostensibly hotels have telephone systems that track this sort of information when a guest rings).

There seems to be only one doorman most of the time. This often results in one opening the very heavy air-locked door by one’s self when the doorman’s attentions are elsewhere. Because Crosby Street is a narrow cobblestone road, taxis have to be hailed from nearby Spring Street by the doorman, and this takes several minutes. Meanwhile, nobody is manning the door.

Sloppiness was also apparent at times, such as when my server spilled coffee while pouring it and then left without apologizing or cleaning up the mess. My coffee cup went empty at breakfast more times than I care to remember. This morning, a server took my plate before I had finished eating.

Food and Beverage (Crosby Bar)

There is no big name chef attached to the dining room at CSH, and that seems fine to me. I don’t need a big name chef, but I do want the food to be good! Their F&B needs work. I had two breakfasts and one dinner in the restaurant. Breakfast was spotty on both occasions. The steak and eggs on my first day were alright, but the hashbrown potatoes were an inedible brick. I’m a hashbrown lover, but I couldn’t enjoy what was served, which was a hardened mass of congealed potato starch. The second day I had eggs benedict which was a very basic preparation of two English muffins, very thinly sliced ham and two perfectly poached eggs. The Hollandaise sauce had partially broken. The dish itself was lukewarm and ungarnished.

Dinner was not much better. I had two dishes recommended by my server. The steak tartar was not spectacular and had several pieces of inedible tendon fibers that greatly decreased the appeal of the dish. On the other hand, the steak on my steak salad was perfectly cooked and flavorful.

The Crosby Bar also has to rework the pricing on its beverages. They are truly ridiculous in Las Vegas fashion. $35 for a glass of Laurent-Perrier's Cuvée Rosé! Cocktails start at $18. Luckily, the two drink vouchers came in very handy!

Fortunately SOHO does not lack for dining options. For breakfast, I would recommend walking half a block to Balthazar on Spring Street.

I also highly recommend trying these new tiny stuffed mini cupcakes from a tiny shop called Baked by Margaret with a pickup windown on Spring @ Mercer (just look for the huge line in the street).

Or, if you are feeling adventurous in a gritty NYC downtown way, you could get some pulled pork tacos at La Esquina a few blocks down in Kenmore Square. Don't expect fancy or even sit down. But it is the best Mexican in NYC.

Checkout
The check-out process proceeded very smoothly and without surprises. My bags were promptly swept away by the bellman. I was warmly bid farewell.

Pluses
Member of TabletPlus hotels, and I received all the extra amenities below:
Welcome glass of champagne/cocktails
Free in-house movies
Upgraded at check-in
Location is prime SOHO while being situated on a quiet street (unlike Mercer)
Welcome gift of Voges chocolates and personalized note
Elegant contemporary English design

Service Issues/Nitpicking
Had to wait for check-in service
Lack of guest recognition with service calls and greetings
Computerized wake-up call
F&B needs work, as noted above

Conclusions
Does CSH live up to the hype? Well, I think so. Kit Kemps interiors are gorgeous in a contemporary English way. The service is good, just not excellent yet. But there is nothing that would prevent me from returning. Indeed, I will be back for another stay in March.

I do feel I need to warn certain luxury forum readers. This is not the Peninsula (we are not in Midtown folks) nor the Four Seasons where everything is pleasingly beige nor the Mandarin Oriental where one can float above the city with expansive views. I will not speak of the Plaza except to say that it is not even in the same league. There is no pool.

This is SOHO. The location will not appeal to everyone. However, for those of us on the luxury forum who enjoy the Downtown area, CSH brings a fresh new luxury property we can call home. I personally try to split my NYC trips between uptown (favoring the Peninsula’s newly renovated rooms) and downtown. The Mercer used to be a favorite, but it is getting a bit long in the tooth and I do enjoy the quieter Crosby street location, gorgeous Kit Kemp designs, and gigantic windows that bring the excitement of NYC into my room.

McNulty's Tea and Coffee, NYC

2010-02-19T23:21:00.000-08:00

Today, I went to McNulty's, the place where I buy coffee. I have one of those machines in my office where you feed in whole beans and expresso and the like pop out. It's just too convenient. I drink a lot of coffee. So, I switched to decaf (or really "quarter caf"). The problem is that no decaf coffee tastes good to me. Then one day I went to McNulty's to look at their teas (it's like stepping back into time, one would think this place hasn't changed since the 1930's!) and I start talking to this lady who's been going there twenty years. Turns out, she's there to pick up a batch of her special "quarter caf" blend that she's developed to her liking and which they make special for her. I said, "I want that too!". And they made some for me. So good. They are really known for their teas, but the coffee is really, really good. These guys are Blue Bottle's great grandfather. They don't have fancy siphon pot extractors or Clover machines. Just giant drums of really dark roasted gorgeous beans.

La Esquina @ Kenmare Square, NYC

2010-02-19T23:19:00.000-08:00

I was trying to be good tonight because I had a 10PM dinner reservation at Eleven Madison. But I got too hungry, so I went to my favorite Mexican place in NYC. It is only two blocks from Crosby Street Hotel, another reason why I love this place! La Esquina is one of those awesome places that do things really well, but look like you wouldn't want to linger too long. It has a gritty NYC charm. It's a walk up and order, eat at the counter type of place. But they really do have the best authentic tacos in NYC (the cochinita pibil is amazing! even after the suckling pig last night). Really good grilled fish tacos, and the elotes callejeros is not bad. I don't really care for their carnitas, though. They set the bar in a city that isn't very knowledgable about Mexican food (where the locals get excited about the "Mexican sodas"...eye roll..). However, here's the secret: if you happen to go there at about 5 or 6pm, a woman walks through a steel door that says "No Entry" or something like that, carrying a walkie-talkie. She then plops down a stool in front of the door and waits while people start lining up. Talking to people in this line, it turns out they have a "fine dining" restaurant in the basement that is supposed to be amazing. It's a funny scene...guys with their girlfriends try to get in as walk-ins...asking to talk with the Maitre d'...the woman on the stool with the walkie-talkie points to the video camera in the corner, "See, they are watching me. If your name is not on the list, we cannot let you in". I love the immigrants turning the table on the elites! Sí, se puede!

Baked by Melissa Spring St. @ Mercer in NYC

2010-02-19T23:15:00.000-08:00

It was a sunny warm 40 degree day so I walked back to the hotel along Spring street and found the next greatest thing: stuffed mini-cupcakes. I have a friend who is terrified of getting fat (I on the other hand, gave up long ago). He will eat half a cookie, and throw the rest away! Yikes! Well, this place is for those kinds of people, who just want a taste of sweetness, or for people like me who like to try lots of different flavors. The cupcakes are about the size of a half dollar, and about half an inch tall (see how the sugar grains on the red velvet cupcake look so big? it's because the cupcake is so small!). A perfect recession-sized mouthful!

Dinner at Mailino, NYC

2010-02-19T19:54:00.000-08:00

I'm ashamed to say that I ate this entire basket of bread at Maialino tonight. It was that good.

But not as ashamed as I am of eating the suckling pig that was later brought to the table despite my protestations (I tried so hard not to think of the poor baby pig). There are no photos of the pig--which like the Ortolan (I've read) should be eaten with a napkin over your head to hide your shameful pleasure.

So good. So bad.

I love eating in NYC.

Pierre Gagnaire's Twist at MO LV, Las Vegas

2010-01-12T00:19:00.000-08:00

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Pierre Gagnaire's Twist

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(Click to view video)

I'm an eater. Always have been. My parents owned and operated a restaurant and so my connection with food began as a child. So, without using the pejorative term "foodie" I will say that I am one who loves to experience the world through food and that I will seek to find the best or most interesting experiences I can find when I travel, whether they be three-star restaurants or a stall in an asian street market.

In school and when traveling with friends, I would occasionally take one night to myself and ditch my friends and spend my savings on one special dinner. Some of my most memorable dinners have been solo visits and I've happily continued this tradition when I solo travel for business as was the case with this visit to Twist. My experience with French cuisine in Las Vegas includes Guy Savoy, L'Atelier de Jöel Robuchon (four times), and Jöel Robuchon at the Mansion. I will base my review in comparison to these restaurants.

I have always wanted to try Pierre Gagnaire's food, but haven't had the chance. I've read some of his books. I'm fascinated by his point of view: throwing out classic French cooking and making it modern, and relevant through fusion. Twist is Pierre Gagnaire's first restaurant in the United States and it is located on the 23rd floor of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Las Vegas.

Booking a Reservation

The restaurant has 66 seats and I was told it can serve up to 77 covers in one evening. I had no trouble booking a reservation for myself through opentable.com. I will note that the MO does not necessarily have a hidden reserve of tables for guests of the hotel, and bookings are not necessarily easier for hotel guests. The restaurant was fully committed during most of this week due to the CES show.

Reception and Clientele

I was warmly greeted by the receptionist and promptly taken to my table. It was wonderful to see that solo diners are not relegated to the back of the restaurant: I received a wonderful table in the front room with views of the strip. Another gentleman solo dinner was seated on the other side of the restaurant near a window. As the night progressed, the room would fill to include a mix of clientele, including two girlfriends out on the town, a family with two children, a large group of CES participants to my left, and of course couples out for a romantic dinner. Jackets are not required for Twist, and some men elected not to wear them. The overall environment is elevated elegance without being stuffy.

Decor and Environment

The restaurant design itself is stunning in the sense of the large volume of the room, which is partially filled and made more intimate by Bocci lights hanging in sculptural patterns from the ceiling like stars in the night sky. The design reminds me somewhat of Danny Meyer's Modern in NYC, in the sense of the large volume of space and modern design. This is not at all like Jöel Robuchon at the Mansion (sea of intense floral bouquets, French chandeliers), L'Atelier (dark room, open kitchen), or Guy Savoy (wooden lattice walls, almost Japanese aesthetic). At Twist, there are literally craters in the white plaster walls, which provide a rich visual metaphor to Gagnaire's quest to shatter traditional concepts of French cuisine.

Wine List

I'm not a wine expert, and I am a light weight when it comes to alcohol. There is a reasonable selection of wines available by the glass, and I enjoyed starting things off with the Ruinart Rosé NV champagne from Reims. I will not comment further on wine, as there are people far more capable than I who can so.

Menu

I generally dislike tasting menus because I think many restaurants in Las Vegas design them for tourists and businessmen on expense accounts who don't care to think carefully enough to choose a la carte and who think $500 16-course tasting menu with Kobe beef add-on and wine pairing (as seen at other LV restaurants) is better than a carefully selected starter and main and select wines by the glass. I like the idea of a tasting menu letting you experience a wide range of Chef's dishes, but six or sixteen courses are just too much for me to eat and too many ideas to get my head around.

Several things made me order the tasting menu at Twist: 1) it was a four-course tasting menu plus dessert (you could call it six courses if you include dessert and intermezzo), 2) Langoustine five ways (a signature dish) was included, 3) loin of venison (personal favorite), 4) there were five desserts (I love dessert), 5) the cost was $185.00, entirely reasonable.

The Menu called Pierre Gagnaire's Spirit looked like this:

First Course: Sea Scallops & Foie Gras

Second Course: John Dory Fillet

Third Course: Langoustine Five Ways

Intermezzo: Cucumber, Tomato and Pineapple

Fourth Course: Loin of Venison

Grand Dessert Pierre Gagnaire

The Meal

Amuse Bouche

Usually an amuse is meant to tickle the palate and prime the appetite for what is to come. I would have to say the amuse at Twist is not really a bouche (mouthful) but instead comes in five courses. Because the amuse was not on the menu, I cannot give you the exact names or ingredients, only my general description. A variety of flavors and textures were offered, from crispy potato chip with embedded ?sardine garnish, to a cuttlefish salad that had a nice acid with chewy cuttlefish. My favorite however was a velvety smooth cauliflower purée enriched with lots of cream and butter that was enjoyed with sesame breadsticks.

First Course: Sea Scallops & Foie Gras

Squab breast, foie gras, black olive gelée, sake-apple marmalade, pomegranate seeds

I cannot find anything in my tasting notes on this course which probably reflects how much I enjoyed it (I was too busy eating). The perfect combination of textures and flavors, with a buttery under-seasoned sea scallop picking up its salt from the black olive gelée beneath along with acid from the sake-apple marmalade. Pomegranate seeds debut in this course, but recur two other times during the meal, and provide a perfect sweet acid crunch to the velvety fat of the foie gras. The foie itself is only reached after first eating through a tender filet of perfectly cooked squab meat.

Second Course: John Dory Fillet

Poached in malamar black pepper-citrus butter, cannelloni beans, marin velouté, and crunch sauce

I love fish, and the John Dory doesn't disappoint. The butter-poached fish melts in your mouth, while the cannelloni beans provide an amped-up meatiness. A cleaver crunch sauce adds delightful texture to the dish.

Third Course: Langoustine Five Ways

Mousseline perfumed with sherry manzanilla, grilled with TTB sauce and avocado, Tartar with Campari turnip and baby greens, seared with Iberico ham and bell pepper, Gelée with Kombu seaweed seasoned with lobster coral.

If there is anything that best describes the thoughtfulness of Gagnaire's cuisine in this tasting menu, it is probably this dish. The progression of the preparations provided me with a gift of understanding a langoustine from its primordial gestation (tartar) to its full evolution rising from the salty ocean. The saltiness of the Iberico and the smoky eggplant garnish perfectly brings to mind the marine environment. But the tartar was my favorite, bright intense, sweet floral notes of clean white flesh punctuated with the crisp acid of pomegranate seeds.

Intermezzo: Cucumber, Tomato and Pineapple

Kirsch brandy, rhubarb mousse, grapefruit granité

I smiled when I first saw this dish. Then I laughed when I tasted it. The sight of it brought back joyous memories of Alain Passard's L'Arpege, where I realized that vegetarianism is not madness. There I was served a tomato granité that was so pure, and honest and concentrated of flavor that I felt I could taste the sunshine on the vine. This intermezzo, a small palate cleanser, might do the same, I thought. There is acid from the grapefruit that cuts the sweetness of the rhubarb mousse, then the alcohol finds your tongue. But the twist here is the heat, incredible heat, that your palate intensely feels from the peppers hidden somewhere in this dish. Amazingly, as soon as the heat reaches maximal intensity, it disappears. Something that you think would ruin your palate, leaves it refreshed and ready for the next course (that's when I laughed).

Fourth Course: Loin of Venison

Red cabbage-black currant jam, tamy potato, pear-celery gratin, "grand veneur" quenelle

Gagnaire's playfulness with contrasts is nowhere more apparent then with this dish. A perfectly cooked loin of venison, is set in stark contrast on dark blood-red cabbage. The unctuous meat plays wonderfully against the sweetness of the cabbage bed. But the highlight is the "grand veneur" quenelle. Grand veneur sauce is usually served with big game (sometimes it's called huntsmen sauce), but here Gagnaire has made it into an ice cream! You might think the contrast of hot and cold would be madness in your mouth, but you would be wrong. The ice cream is not served ice-cold and it melts and wraps around your palate and lingers to flavor the meat in a way that a sauce alone could not.

Grand Dessert Pierre Gagnaire

Qunice gelée, bavaroise, chartreuse parfait, Nelson sablé, meringue, citrus sorbet, Cachaça granité, cucumber marmalade, green apple, Fruit biscuit, seasonal coulis, Ganache, ginger, chocolate ice cream

Twist has a marvelous pastry chef that plays to Gagnaire's principles of innovations and fusion. I think this is best exemplified in the Cachaça granité, cucumber marmalade, green apple dessert. Who would think that cucumber would provide such a flavorful dessert and that it could be garnished with pea shoots? Yet is all works, so well.

Conclusion of Meal

I finished my dinner with a double expresso and some housemade candies and chocolates. I thanked the heavens that I was spared the three tiers of petit fours and confections that are usually brought at this time. The meringue candies were especially light and delicious. It will bear mentioning at this time that the service throughout the meal was superb. The restaurant manager made his usual and customary rounds to the tables and I was warmly greeted by name. My waiter, even thought to bring me one of Gagnaire's cookbooks to peruse, a thoughtful kindness to the solo diner. This is something special I grasp immediately from Twist: it is a place where everyone will feel comfortable before, during and at the end of a meal, from the solo diner to a family with young children. The food is innovative, but approachable. The prices are not atmospheric. The setting is elegant and romantic, but not stuffy. The final twist to Twist may be that fine dining in Las Vegas doesn't need gimmicks or an up-sell, and that above all else, it can be fun.

Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas Review

2010-01-10T17:54:00.000-08:00

(Click here to view video)

Overview

The Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Las Vegas is located in the new City Center complex, and is positioned right on the LV strip for convenient walking access. It is a luxury hotel and private residence. There is no onsite casino or theater.

Design

Adam D. Tihany, a New York based-designer best known for his restaurants (Daniel, Le Cirque, Per Se, Aureole) was the design consultant who worked with the architecture firm Adamson Associates to design the interiors of the Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas, including the guest rooms and suites, F&B outlets, spa and pool areas. I was surprised to learn this because this property shares so much in common with its sister property in Tokyo which I visited during its opening week five years ago.

As with Tokyo, guests enter a ground-level lobby to a top level grand lobby (23rd floor) which has majestic views of the Las Vegas strip. The tea room, bar and Twist are also on the 23rd floor. All other guest rooms, suites, the spa and pool are located below this level. Private home residences are located above the 23rd floor, and I was informed they are being sold as empty spaces to be finished to owner specifications. They are apparently beginning to close escrow on many of these spaces this month. What this means in terms of the impact from noise/disturbance due to ongoing construction work at the hotel going forward remains to be seen.

Arrival at Hotel

As my limo from the Aria pulled up to the MO, a doorman in a distinctive top hat opened the door and said, "Mr. Ether, we've been expecting you." I sometimes wonder how hotels manage to greet you by name before seeing your luggage or checking in, but in this case I suspect the concierge alerted the doormen to be on the look out for a frantic guest trying to escape the Aria hotel (see Aria SkySuites review). Needless to say, I was personally greeted and escorted to the 23rd floor while my bags were whisked away by the bellman.

"Welcome back, Mr. Ether!" was the greeting I received from Sang at the front desk. He remembered me from the previous evening when I stopped by the front desk to talk with the his colleague Nicholas about possibly changing hotels. Additional welcomes rang in from staff along the front desk. The check-in process was quick and I received my room keys and a package from the concierge. I made the booking under virtuoso but did not receive an upgrade and they were not able to accommodate a late check-out for me the following day.

In the envelope was a short typed letter from the concierge Joe. It said, "We are delighted that you enjoyed your experience at Twist. Here is the menu you requested. Should you need anything at all, please don't hesitate to call upon us." That's right, I did mention to Nicholas the previous night that I thought it would be nice to get a copy of the menu. I'm surprised and delighted he remembered my comment, considering I wasn't even a guest of the hotel at the time and I hadn't made my booking until the following day. Nice.

Lobby

The lobby is a grand experience. You are greeted by a modernistic, Asian inspired mosaic lattice wall which opens into floor-to-ceiling windows of the Las Vegas strip and the front desk area. A large sculptural piece anchors the front desk and fresh flowers accent the wall. On the video the lobby appears very dark, and this is a bit misleading. The decor is very intimate which contrasts with the expansive architecture. Like the MO in Tokyo, Tihany creates this effect by using dark wood on the walls, and lighting the floor in pools of light so that what remains are elegant pieces of furniture, table sculptures and elements of human-scale luxury.

Mandarin Premier Room (650 square feet)

The premier room is the largest room category and leads to the executive suite (850 sq feet) which is the next category up. My room (921) was located approximately in the middle of the hotel tower.

The room itself is elegantly furnished and lighted. There are floor-to-ceiling windows, but I am a bit disappointed that they are panels that are blocked by the curtains (which ostensibly could have been recessed into the walls). My window panels were interrupted by a solid panel in which a mirror was placed. The windows were somewhat dirty and provided views of the strip and the Crystals shopping center. Sound isolation seemed excellent the evening I arrived, but I did note some noise leakage during the day from either an outdoor concert or someone playing a stereo outside very loudly. Otherwise, the overall environment was excellent.

Furnishings

The furnishings in the room are of very high quality. There were several Asian-inspired pieces, and I found the desk chair so nice and comfortable I wanted to take it home with me. Solid wood with rich surface grain in dark finishes were used for furnishings throughout the room. Delicate crystal sculptures were placed on two side tables throughout the room.

Bedroom

The bed itself is not as comfortable as the Aria SkySuite's. It was a bit too hard for me. However, the sheets and pillows were very comfortable and I had no problem getting a wonderful night's rest. The bedside lighting controls are straightforward but I found them difficult to use at night because they are unlabeled in the dark. Therefore I found I had to randomly press buttons to activate lighting in the middle of the night. The same control panel and A/V system from Aria is employed by the MO, but somehow their system works better. The television worked flawlessly with the remote and had no audio issues at all. In addition the control panel had many cumbersome features stripped away so that it was simpler to use. This increased the utility of the device tremendously.

Bathroom

The bathroom is large and contains twin sinks, television, large vanity mirror, a shower large enough for two people, and a large soaking tub. It was also well stocked with the following items:

Amenity Chest

Sewing kit
Dental kit
Shaving kit
Vanity kit
Shoe Polisher kit
Men's collar points
Loofah
Lip balm
Nail pick

Products by Aromatherapy Associates

Body lotion
Shampoo
Body wash
Conditioner
Bath soap bar
Face soap bar
Bath salts near soaking tub

Bath Accessories

Bathroom scale
Blow dryer
Device for flat-ironing hair
Television with remote

Closet

The walk-in closet area came with three drawers for storing clothes, as well as an elevated luggage space, electronic safe with electrical outlets for phones/laptops, umbrella, ironing board and iron, additional blankets and pillows, and a yoga mat. A tray is provided to place your shoes for cleaning.

Turndown Service

The turndown service includes the following items:

Room cleaned
Ice bucket filled
Tray with breakfast menu and vase with orchid placed on bench at foot of bed
Orchid placed on bath tub
Bathmat placed in front of shower door
Coffee/tea set and water placed on dresser
Slippers placed on floor mat by bed
Bottled water and glass placed on night stand
Lighting dimmed
Television set to mood music channel

Work Desk

Very comfortable desk chair and work desk with lamp is provided in room. The connectivity panel is accompanied by a technology kit that has every conceivable connector and cord one might need. It would be nice to have a built-in fax machine with personal number as the Peninsula hotels offer, but I don't expect this from MOs and don't expect this will change in the near future.

Update: Mandarin Executive Suite

I recently stayed in an Executive Suite and there appears to be three different sizes of these suites. Makes sure to request a suite ending in "35" or the "largest" executive suite possible.

Here's a movie of my recent executive suite stay.

Checkout

Because MO was not able to accommodate my late checkout on this Virtuoso reservation, I left my bags with the bellman and went to the spa at 1PM for a 3PM treatment. Upon completing my spa treatment, I requested that the spa services be added to my hotel bill immediately because I was going back upstairs to checkout. I was assured this was done.

When I returned upstairs to complete my checkout, the bill did not show any spa charges. When I mentioned that my spa charges were missing, I was told that "they were already taken care of with the spa credit". I'm certain that a $340 spa charge wouldn't be covered by a $100 spa credit, but I didn't have time to press the point as I was leaving for the airport. However, I can see this coming back to bite me later with an additional charge from the spa (sans $100 credit). To be sure, I called the spa on my way to the airport and they assured me the charges had been added to the hotel bill and been paid with the spa credit. Well, nothing more I can do if they are forcing me to accept a free day at the spa from MO LV, I guess!

Pluses

Brings an established luxury brand and international-level luxury service to Las Vegas.
World-class spa
World-class F&B (Twist)
Non-gaming environment
Proximal to the Las Vegas strip and Crystals
Public spaces are stunning yet offer intimate, human-scale luxury

Service Issues/Nitpicking

Bill lacks sufficient detail for many expense reports, spa credit was not applied properly (?)
Turndown service: commode lid left upright, toilet paper not folded or foiled
No comb in amenity chest
$18/day charge for internet connectivity
Late checkout and upgrade were not accommodated on this Virtuoso reservation.
Expensive room rates ($595/night for a premier room, caveat being CES).

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MO SPA

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(Click here to watch video)

Las Vegas is blessed with many different and excellent spa options. I have personally tried Canyon Ranch at Venetian (70,000 sq feet, 80 treatment rooms), Qua at Caesars (50,000 sq feet, 51 treatment rooms), and the Spa at Encore (61,000 sq feet, 51 treatment rooms). Although I'm sure there are many other wonderful spas in LV, my comments will focus on the MO Spa in comparison to the ones above. One note: I am not a spa junkie, but I do enjoy hotel spas for massages, the associated facilities such as pools, laconiums, whirlpool tubs, saunas, and relaxation rooms--especially after a long day of meetings.

I believe that MO's spa is unique and offers several advantages over the ones above. Specifically, it offers world-class features and amenities usually only found in large spas, yet caters to a small number of clients. The MO spa seems specifically created to offer an outstanding spa experience with personalized attention to a very small number of guests. This is because this 27,000 square foot spa only has 17 treatment rooms.

I believe MO offers the best spa experience in Las Vegas. Please read on to find out why.

Check-in to the Spa

The MO spa is located on the seventh and eighth floors of the hotel, and I was greeted at the front desk by a receptionist and attendant who simultaneously welcomed me with a Namaste gesture. I arrived at 1PM for a 3PM massage treatment, and I would recommend arriving early so that you can enjoy the spa facilities.

Beginning the Journey

My attendant, speaking in hushed whispers, invited me to the reception lounge where I was asked to complete a short health form. He left through a hidden door panel in the wall and returned moments later carrying a tray with slippers. "Mr. Ether, at Mandarin Oriental we mark the beginning of your journey with us through the slipper ceremony. This is where you remove your shoes and leave the worries of the world behind you and allow us to take you into our care."

This is followed by a cup of tea and refreshing scented towel.

Down to the Men's Spa Area

Men's and women's spa areas are located on the seventh floor of the hotel. My spa attendant JP walked me past the boutique (Espa products mainly, but they have others) down a set of stairs to the entrance of the men's area. Before we entered, he asked me if I had any electronics and counseled me that they should be turned off to avoid disturbing other guests.

I was shown to my locker, which contained a spa robe, towels, and a complimentary amenity kit that I was invited to use and take with me after my visit.

I was given a complete walk through the facilities, which took about eight minutes, the highlights of the facilities and my experience there include:

A large elevated Vitality Pool area with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the strip that had water heated to 102°F. Submerged within the pool are chaise loungers that have air bubbles that blow up from below creating a sensation of floating. A perfect area to relax, and the temperature is not uncomfortably hot so you can linger for a long while. The pool appeared large enough to accommodate six guests. One of my attendants, Adel brought a neck pillow and suggested I use it while I leaned back to read my newspapers. He promptly brought two big fluffy pillows and sat them on the pool floor to my right and suggested I place my papers there to keep them dry. My robe and slippers were promptly hung and stored close by.

The steam room is large and has LED lights embedded into the ceiling that slowly change colors as they glow. The steam is scented with various essential oils or extracts, Ylang-Ylang was what JP told me they used the day I visited. The temperature of the steam room was not too hot, and I enjoyed a long and pleasant steam. After about five minutes in the room, JP arrived with a bundle of ice wrapped in a cold towel, which he suggested I use to cool my skin. It was so very refreshing. After another ten minutes, JP arrived with a bottle of cold water just as I was beginning to get thirsty. "Stay hydrated," he suggested. This is an example of the high level of service provided in the spa. Your needs really are anticipated and yet you are given private space to relax without unnecessary intrusion.

Three Tepidarium chairs (contoured heated bench chaises) overlooking the strip. These Tepidarium chairs were located in a separate room, for quiet relaxation. I enjoyed them for a very long time reading and relaxing prior to my treatment. They are extremely comfortable and the heat soothes an aching back.

Aqua experience showers. The Encore men's spa has something close to this made by Kohler, but MO's takes the concept to an entirely new level. The MO has two aqua experience showers, which are completely enclosed spaces (with a glass door). LED lights and speakers are embedded in the ceiling. Six high pressure jets are placed on the walls in front and behind you. A large plate of jets is mounted on the ceiling and a main shower head and cascade head are located high on the wall in front of you.

The experience contains five pre-programmed water and light "shows", Arctic mist, tropical rain, island storm, and others. The water can be intermittently warm or cold, it is a play on contrasts of temperature, force and texture of water sprays on your body. To best enjoy this experience, I found, is to turn the normal shower head on hot as you can stand, and then activate one of the pre-programmed shows. The lights, sounds, and different types of water jets is really refreshing. Especially after the steam or sauna rooms.

The sauna at the spa was imported from Europe and has intricate wood details applied to the walls. It is a large sauna with multilevel benches. The heat was comfortable, though a bit less hot that I normally like. I found the heat increased the longer I stayed in the sauna, though I didn't sweat very much. JP brought another bottle of cold water and sprayed orange-lavender essential oils into the air, then left as quickly as he had arrived.

The laconium area is a warm room best enjoyed in your spa robe. The heated bench is a great place to lay down and rest in a peaceful atmosphere.

Finally, the relaxation room contains a refreshment area that has fruit, teas, and water as well as magazines. The highlight are the four beds, similar to the "cacoon pods" at the Peninsula NYC spa, which I particularly love after a red-eye to JFK. These beds are very comfortable and I could take a nap there for hours. I do wish they might have some heavier snacks like nuts or dried fruit available. I like to stay at a spa for several hours, and sometimes the stomach starts to growl and an apple just won't do.

Treatment: Thai Massage

Napping with an iced towel on my chest in the steam room, my spa attendant JP found me and reminded me that my treatment was scheduled to begin shortly. Renny, my therapist, escorted me upstairs for a Thai massage.

I normally get standard Swedish or deep tissue massages as these are de rigeur at most spas, though Balinese is my favorite. I opted to get a Thai massage because it is not commonly available and my lower extremities needed a really good stretch after all the walking I had been doing in Las Vegas. Thai massage isn't for everyone though, which is an important caveat. You don't just lie on a massage table like a lump of coal.

The treatment starts by changing into yoga clothes. Thai massage is done fully clothed. The treatment room is non-traditional, there is a large 12-foot square futon-like bed on the floor which you are asked to lay upon. The treatment itself involves pressure, compressions, and a lot of stretching. It is like Yoga except the therapist is doing the work for you, putting you into a series of postures.

Still sleep deprived from two horrible nights at the Aria, I amazingly fell asleep towards the end of the treatment. Apparently my therapist had flipped me over a couple of times and stretched me like a puppet, or so I was told later. When I did eventually wake up my therapist was kneeling on the floor waiting for me and invited me to change back into my spa robe.

I was very pleased with the treatment and felt much more relaxed. My lower extremities felt much more limber and the soreness from the previous days had vanished.

Check-out of the Spa

JP escorted me back up to the boutique to receive my shoes and checkout. I asked the charges go to my room bill, and the receptionist assured me they would be added immediately. I also purchased a spa robe and asked that it be shipped to my home. I declined an offer of tea or water before I left the spa.

Pluses

Penultimate Asian spa experience in Las Vegas.
Extremely modern and advanced spa facilities catering to a small number of clientele.
Pitch-perfect spa service by men's area attendants. They are there to give you what you need before you even need it, then they disappear.
Aqua experience is a very unique feature, but instructions must be followed to obtain optimal experience.
Amenity kit is a nice gift. The robe was so comfortable I purchased one to have sent to my home.
Nice array of Asia services, such as Thai massage. I would like to see Balinese massage offered.
Handwritten thank you note from therapist given to me upon checkout was a very nice touch.
Use of spa facilities only is $100/day and complementary with a treatment

Minuses

Treatment rooms and spa facilities are located on different floors, so you will have to climb stairs and walk a few minutes to receive your treatment.
The spa does not have Vichy showers, so if you seek those type of services you will have to look elsewhere.
Pool is not open until Spring/Summer.
No shoe horn is available to assist in putting on your shoes as you leave the spa.
Prices are expensive, but on par with other luxury spas in LV.

Mozen Restaurant @ MO LV, Las Vegas

2010-01-10T00:18:00.000-08:00

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MOZen

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MOzen is MO's all day dining venue and it is a pan-asian restaurant described as a kitchen theater with sushi bar, noodle bar, rotisserie and grill. The menu contains items from Japanese, Chinese, Indian, and Thai cuisines. I had dinner and breakfast at MoZen.

My dinner at MOzen was excellent but expensive. The total with tax and gratuity came to about $160. This included a starter, a small plate, a noodle dish and dessert.

The tuna carpaccio was excellent. Lightly seared toro tuna is served with garnishes and drizzled with truffle oil. It is accompanied by a light salad.

The Kobe braised shortrib was spectacular. It was priced at $28. I am always a bit skeptical of meats labelled Kobe served in the US, especially since it gives a restaurant the excuse to charge and arm and a leg for an entree. I usually expect Snake River farms or some other American-raised ersatz variety when Kobe is placed on a menu. However, one bite told me otherwise. The meat had that very distinctive truffley unctuousness of Kobe, probably with a high marbling grade given the intense flavor from the fat, though braising would pretty much render much of that out. The restaurant manager visited my table and confirmed that it was Kobe beef from Japan. Quite lovely.

I wanted to try the noodle bar and opted for some La Mien noodles (hot chili oil on the side). They were serviceable, but I would have like more green herbs or even a small assorted herb salad on top of the noodles to brighten the flavors. The beef was somewhat chewy. The broth was flavorful and the noodles were good. Probably not my favorite dish, and if I were to return for dinner I would not order it again. I would caution diners to be very specific about spice. The cooks are fairly heavy-handed with the chili oil, and even though I asked for mine on the side, the broth was still fairly spicy.

Dessert was a passionfruit panna cotta, served in spheres. It was a creative presentation, but perhaps a bit too much gelatin in the panna cotta in order to hold them in their spherical form: the texture was a bit tougher than I prefer.

"Thank you Mr. Ether!" the manager said as I left MoZen. "Thank you Mr. Ether!" three more staff members chimed in sync shortly thereafter. "We have a table for you for breakfast tomorrow, see you then!" I was told.

My breakfast at MoZen the next day was delightful. My breakfast was included in my room rate, and the hotel only adds the gratuity you choose to provide your waiter to your bill.

A fan of their Kobe, I went for the Kobe fillet with poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce. This was accompanied by french fries. I was fearful that this would be too much food for me, but I thought it would be important to fortify myself for a day-long fast to follow in the hotel's spa.

The meal started with an amuse bouche from the chef, a small shot of carrot-ginger juice which awakened my senses with its spice. The orange juice tasted fresh squeezed and the coffee was good, hot, and my cup was always full.

Service at MoZen was excellent and the dining room sports great views of the Crystals shopping complex at CityCenter. I would have no problem having a quick dinner here and look forward to wonderful hearty breakfast experiences. Guests looking for romantic, exceptional dinner venues or celebrating special occasions may wish to look elsewhere.

Aria 1-Bedroom SkySuite Review (with Video!)

2010-01-08T23:51:00.000-08:00

(Click here to view video)

There are times in one's life where one's patience is tested, and a sensible traveler will take a moment to step back and appreciate that bad things sometimes happen to good people, for no reason at all.

My stay at Aria, unfortunately, was not one of those occasions. In the case of Aria's SkySuites, bad things happen to bad people (management) because they are not good at what they do. Because some of their staff don't care. Because a hotel with 4004 rooms doesn't (or perhaps cannot) focus sharply on a guest's individual needs.

My understanding was that SkySuites were designed to address the needs of guests who wished for more personalized service and a luxurious experience. At least that's what they say on their website:

The SkySuites are positioned by Aria to be their "ultra-luxe" accomodations, where "elite services wait only for you to realize a desire for us to fulfill it." Where their website advertising the 1 bedroom SkySuite asks you to "Breathe in – the air really is better up here." Unfortunately, the odor I first noticed upon arriving in my suite was that of the previous guest's dirty socks. But more on that later.

Pre-arrival Concierge Telephone Call

I received a telephone call from the Aria SkySuites concierge several days before my arrival asking for my flight information and if they could arrange dining or show reservations for me. The concierge was very nice. I asked if she could recommend any restaurants in CityCenter worth trying. I was quickly given the run down of various Aria restaurants. The concierge noted my request for a dining reservation at Twist, Pierre Gagnaire's new restaurant at MO and said it would be arranged.

Ten minutes later, the concierge called again to apologize because the flight information was "lost in the computer system" or accidentally erased and she would need the information again. I was also told that Twist was completely booked for the evening I requested.

After repeating my flight information, I opened up what is commonly known as a web browser and surfed to a site called opentable.com. On this website, amazingly, I found that I was able to arrange a table for myself the very night I had requested from the Aria concierge, albeit at a somewhat early hour of 6:15PM.

Flight Delay: Attempt to call Aria to let them know

"Hi, could I have the SkySuite concierge please?"...."Hello, SkySuites"..."Yes, may I speak to a concierge?"..."Just a moment."...one minute of silence..."Hello, how can I help you?"..."Yes, I have a scheduled limo pickup but my flight is delayed..."..."Sorry sir, this is the operator. Let me connect you to the concierge."..."I need the SkySuites please"..."Hello SkySuites..."..."Yes Hi, I have a scheduled limo pickup could I speak to a concierge?"..."Just a moment"...(click, disconnect).

Redial. Rinse, shampoo, repeat X2.

Complimentary Airport Limo Pickup

Amazingly an Aria driver was waiting for me immediately as I entered the arrivals area with a sign that had my name on it. Bliss. Very nice and efficient pickup and the limo quite nice. Water was available and pleasant and appropriate conversation was shared between driver and guest.

Arrival at Aria SkySuites and the Porte-cochère

Much is made of the SkySuites' private Porte-cochère on the Aria's website:

"An alternative-fuel limousine whisks you from the airport to an exclusive arrival under a private porte-cochère. Immediately, you are escorted into a separate lobby for your private check-in. Then, after enjoying a drink and hors d'oeuvres in the exclusive ARIA Sky Suites lounge, a private elevator takes you to one-of-a-kind accommodations with custom furnishings, unparalleled amenities, and soaring floor-to-ceiling windows providing dramatic views of the world's most famous skyline."

I find the porte-cochère very nice for limo transfers but completely inadequate for getting about Las Vegas. Taxis are not allowed in the porte-cochère. To get a taxi, you must walk all the way to the front of Aria. There is a closer North Valet taxi stand, but on three occasions I waited 20+ minutes for a taxi only to give up and walk the much longer distance to the main entrance. To add insult to injury, the upstairs level seem to always have at least one or two taxis dropping off guests, yet I was told repeatedly that I could not take these taxis and would have to go downstairs to the "departure" level to get a taxi, where of course they are non-existent.

This is an example where SkySuite guests are significantly inconvenienced by their location in the hotel. I find it very similar to Signature's relationship to the MGM Grand and its very inconvenient location in the back of the property. At least taxis are allowed to go to the Signature back entrance, a convenience Aria's SkySuite guests are denied.

Check-in at the Aria SkySuites

After walking through a beautiful private lobby, my check-in was completed in 10 minutes. It would have been faster, but there were "computer problems" preventing the room keys from being generated. Very nice, friendly front desk staff. A butler carrying a silver tray of water asked me if I would like some (gas and no gas were both offered). I declined an offer for a personal escort to my room.

Arrival at 1 Bedroom SkySuite

My first impression of the suite is that it felt smaller than I thought it would. I fully recognize that I usually stay in a Salon suite at the Encore (for nearly the same price, I will add), and that is 2000+ square feet. My expectations may need to be lowered. Duly noted. Adjustment made.

The overall feeling is of a reasonably nice friend's apartment: the look is completed by the small bar and fake-looking plant in the living room. A pleasant place for sure. But no distinctive design: the year 2002 called and they want their EQ3 furniture back.

My room on the 38th floor offered pleasant views, but I can see the advantage of being higher up in the building. The views are much better on the 55th floor. I know, because I was moved there the next day. Read on to learn why.

Housekeeping Issues

As I walked through the room, I did notice some bothersome housekeeping issues. Notably, as I unpacked my clothes, I noted how filthy the drawers were (see video), they contained lint, used gum in a silver wrapper, a piece of paper, and the previous guests dirty socks!

The socks must have been recently used because the odor upon opening the drawer was quite strong. I have a strong stomach, so I was quite surprised that housekeeping wouldn't have noticed when they ostensibly "cleaned" the room.

Bathroom

The bathroom is quite nice, with a very large soaking spa tube (not the jacuzzi type, but one that blows air bubbles and "foam"), a large shower and commode. I was very impressed by the TOTO heated toilet seat which I enjoy every time I return to the Peninsula Tokyo. A heated toilet seat can be life-changing, really.

Too bad mine came with three long blond hairs stuck on a foil wrapper which I only noticed when I sat down on the commode and felt the sticky tape (sorry this isn't in the video, that was too gross to film). Did I mention there are housekeeping issues?

The bath amenities are house branded and of acceptable quality. I liked that a dental kit, lip balm (dry desert air) and mouthwash were provided. No comb was provided however.

Internet Access, Control and Connectivity Panels

Wonderfully, internet access is free at Aria. Their claim that their "wireless Internet connectivity will be up to eight times faster (128 kilobytes) than the average U.S. guestroom today." was not met during my stay. My access did not reach even half this speed. But it is free, so I accept those limitations and appreciate the amenity.

The connectivity panel on the work desk contains convenient power, USB, VGA, S-Video and audio connections. However, I couldn't get S-video or audio to work on the display panel. No cables or a technology kit were provided.

Let me discuss another issues: the electronic technology panel that drives the electric curtains, lighting systems and A/V equipment. It simply doesn't work as billed. The touch panel they used has extremely poor responsiveness and long latency without any tactile or auditory feedback that a function has been selected. The television volume could not be controlled on the external remote or panel. Adjusting room temperature requires exasperating complexity. This "green" hotel had the room set to heat to 80°C as default.

I think of the technology panel as the "iDrive" of hotel interfaces. I really do wonder if BMW was involved in engineering this fiasco. One example, when pressing the "Goodnight" button, everything in the room shut down, including the television and then the drapes opened. I finally gave up, put eyemask on and went to bed.

Bedroom and Turndown Service

Evening turndown service included cleaning and restocking of bathroom amenities and towels, placement of robes on the bed, and adjustment of lighting controls to the "turndown" position. Two foil-pack chocolates are provided on each nightstand. No complementary bottled water was provided to the suite.

I have to say, the bed is incredibly comfortable. It is a feather top bed, and it was so comfortable I had to peel off the linens the next morning to discover that it is a Sealy posturpedic made especially for Aria. Four down pillows are very comfortable.

The Nocturnal Paranormal Activity

It started at 2AM in the morning. I know because the knocking sound woke me suddenly, and like a mosquito buzzing in my ear, prevented me from obtaining any sleep. At first I thought it might be someone rolling a service cart in the hallway, and I rose out of bed to investigate. That is when I discovered the noise was coming from the walls of the hotel, specifically near the commodes in both bathrooms.

I recorded the sound on my iPhone and looped it in the movie above for your enjoyment. I hope someone will enjoy it, because I was so exhausted at this point I couldn't deal with getting dressed and calling engineering to my room. I put a pillow over my head, tissue in my ears and tried my best to rest...without success.

Interestingly, around 7AM, the sound stopped.

Service Recovery by Management

The front desk staff were extremely apologetic about the noise and noted to me that, actually, multiple guests had complained about it. They didn't seem surprised. "It is a new hotel, these things happen, we hope you understand." I was offered a $150 F&B credit and moved to a higher floor suite of the same category. Although I didn't plan to eat at Aria, I was fortunate that I could charge my dinner at Twist to my Aria hotel bill, so I was able to use the F&B credit.

The Second Night of Paranormal Activity

After an extremely wonderful dinner at Twist, I returned to my suite ready to catch up on some sorely needed sleep. My new room was 55031 and the orientation is exactly reversed to the layout in my old room, 38029. I prefer the layout of the second room and the views are dramatically better. I enjoy a soaking bath and then to bed.

Around 1AM a strange vacuum cleaner-like noise wakes me from my sleep. I really can't believe it is happening again. This time it takes me no time at all to locate the issue: the air jets in the soaking tub seem to be turning on and off randomly and because the tub is now empty of water it sounds like a vacuum.

I try everything to stop it. I press the jet button several times (this only makes things worse). Then i fill the tub with water and press the button (taking naps in-between attempts). I fully realize I could call the for an engineer at any point, but I'm just too tired for that.

At this point, I close all the bedroom doors and I go to the living room and sleep on the couch.

I'm Ready to Leave Now, Thanks!

The front desk staff are extremely apologetic the next morning. Fortunately, I stopped by the front desk of the MO on my way from dinner at Twist and found out that rooms were available the following day. After arranging a room at the MO through my Virtuoso agent, I told the front desk that I would be leaving and would like the complementary limo to the MO at 4PM. The concierge of course said absolutely, we will have it for you. This is the least we can do. No further attempt at service recovery was made by management. Just as well. I really would just like to leave with my sanity in tact.

After a long day I returned to SkySuites at 4PM. When I went to the Port-cochère, the bellman asked for my bags and said my limo would be called. Fifteen minutes later I was still waiting. At that point, I asked the valet to assist me. He said he would look into it right away. Given my experience at this hotel, I stayed with my luggage and dialed the SkySuites concierge (this time only rinse, shampoo and repeat X1, amazingly).

The concierge said there was no record of my limo reservation and was I sure that I had made one. Then I was told that the transfer was not complimentary nor included in my suite rate. Then I was told that even if it were included, the package is for round-trip airport transfers, not transfers between hotels (the MO is much closer than the airport and within the CityCenter complex).

I asked to speak with a manager. "Well, that is your right, if you insist, I can certainly get a manager for you..." was the response. More waiting. Then I ask the doorman to watch my luggage...I'm going in...someone is going to get an ear full.

The manager is sympathetic, curt but apologetic. "Certainly we can arrange a limo for you immediately." At this point, I begin to call the MO concierge to ask if they can send a house car to rescue me from this fiasco. The manager, overhearing me, stops me to say that the car is on its way. Well, forty minutes after the whole thing began I was on my way to the MO.

Heaven. Nirvana. Really, I have never appreciated a MO more than the moment my limo arrived, the doorman with the funny bowler hat opened the door, and said six magic words: "Mr. Ether, we've been expecting you."

Banyan Tree Mayakoba

2009-12-27T20:25:00.000-08:00

Click photo or this link to view the video.
Dates of visits: March 2009 (4 nights Spa Pool Villa) and June 2009 (4 nights 3-bedroom beachfront villa)

Overall Comments About Resort

The Banyan Tree Mayakoba is a stunning new resort located on the Riviera Maya of Mexico, near the cities of Playa del Carmen (to the south) and Cancun (to the north). The idea is to bring the Asian pool-villa concept within easy reach of North America, and Asian influences are seen throughout the resort from the architecture to the food. The resort GM is Pancho Llamas, and he is largely responsible for the high level of service and accolades the resort has received from its guests. His personal charm is contagious and he personally greeted me during my second arrival at BTM. I visited the resort two times, once shortly after its opening in March 2009 when I stayed in a Spa Pool Villa, and again in June 2009 when I stayed in a 3-bedroom ocean-front beach villa (upgraded from a Spa Pool Villa). The resort is not currently part of Virtuoso or FHR.

Location and Transfer from Airport

The resort is located about 35-45 minutes south of Cancun airport. Travelers from the West coast like me will usually arrive around 2-3PM (or around 11AM if you take the red-eye). The resort offers a roundtrip transfer service from the airport ($275). I thought hard about whether to get the transfer or not, and I've decided that it is worth it for me because of the high level of service (chauffeur greets you at the exit of the airport, helps with the bags, and gives your cold towels and bottled water) and the car is very comfortable (Black Cadillac Escalade). I also don't speak Spanish and personally feel more secure using the hotel car service. After spending 10+ hours in the air/waiting at airports, I like the feeling of falling into someone else's care the moment I get to my destination. However, there are lots of taxis and even buses that can take you to the resort.

Arrival at Resort

On both occasions I was personally greeted by the manager on duty upon arrival to the resort, and given a welcome drink (a delicious green juice, made from local fruit). You are invited to enjoy your drink in the public lounge, but check-in is done in your villa. When you are ready, you are swiftly taken to your villa by golf cart.

Spa Pool Villa

Upon arriving at your villa, the first reaction is, "who's staying next door"? This is because your villa is actually comprised of two separate structures: a main villa with a bedroom, bathroom, outdoor shower and outdoor bathtub on the lower level, and an outdoor spa/sundeck and second outdoor shower on the top level. The second structure is the "pool house" (that's what I call it anyways) that has a large built-in daybed, dining table, coffee maker, and entertainment center (television and stereo).

Sandwiched in between these two buildings is your own private swimming pool and private jacuzzi. Elegant landscaping and dramatic lighting finish the scene. It is absolutely private, though I can imagine that the level of privacy might be dictated by the location of your villa in the resort (e.g. next to the golf course, etc.). I personally walked around in my birthday suit when skinny-dipping at night, and felt perfectly comfortable. The only thing I heard at night was the warm breezes blowing the wind shades on the upstairs spa level.

Bedroom

The bedroom is large and elegant, and does have a television (though you won't use it) and a Bose sound system (you will use this!). My favorite part is that the Bedroom walls on two sides slide completely open into the swimming pool that wraps around your villa. You can literally hop from your bed to the swimming pool in only a few steps. One wall opens to a hammock that hangs adjacent to the pool, which was a very nice touch. The bed is very comfortable, and the linens felt wonderful against my skin. Each night, you are left a special present at turn-down service, sometimes it is a satchel of incense, other times souvenir paperweights or carvings. Again, nice touch.

Fresh flowers are left in your rooms and at night special candles are lit which glow inside special clay jars that leave the Banyan Tree logo illuminated against the wall.

Bathroom

The bathroom is completely stunning. There is a circular sink in the middle for his and hers on either side with a mirror in the middle. A large walk-in closet easily holds your luggage and a safe is available for your valuables. There are two best parts of the bathroom: 1) the steam shower (heavenly!) has easily enough room for two people and it has a door that opens to an outdoor shower/bath area, 2) one entire wall of the bathroom opens up to an enclosed outdoor bathtub where you can take a soaking bath and gaze at the stars at night. The wall in back of the bathtub is made of slates of stone with pockets for candles that can be lit at night. They even have portable iPod speaker systems so you can play music while you enjoy your outdoor bath! The toiletries are from the Banyan Tree Spa, and good.

Pool House

The structure adjacent to the pool is a very large separate "house" that contains an extremely comfortable built-in daybed along with an entertainment center, dining room table and chairs, and a Nespresso-style coffee maker with capsules. There is also a small wine cellar. This is a great place to relax, enjoy music and read. Private meals can also be enjoyed here.

Lawn/Patio

There is a small lawn/patio in the back of the Villa facing the lagoon where you can sit or lay out and get some sun. This is where we enjoyed our in-villa barbeque that was prepared onsite by one of the cooks.

Communications

There is a house phone in every room, television with regular programming and on-demand pay movies and free wifi internet throughout the villa. Doesn't really matter though, because you won't be using any of it, except maybe to call for the in-villa barbeque (more on that later).

Food and Beverage

Tamarind

On my first visit to BTM, the only restaurant that was open for dinner was Tamarind. I have to say that I am not a fan of this restaurant. It is adjacent to the BT Spa and I think it takes its cue from this proximity because it offers fairly small portions and the prices are quite high. I don't remember much about my dinner at Tamarind except that while the service was exceptional (everyone at BT knew my name, and my likes and dislikes almost immediately), the food is not something that I would like to try again.

Sands

The dining along the beach at Sands is another matter entirely. The shrimp tacos, club sandwiches and other treats are wonderful and nourishing fare that make for a fantastic lunch. The setting can't be beat, and the prices are reasonable. I also love their ice tea -- it is brewed at your table and deliciously refreshing.

Oriente

This restaurant is similar to Tamarind in that they attempt a fusion of Latin and Asian cuisines. Oriente offers a great morning breakfast, which I enjoyed each day. I went for dinner only once, and while the setting by the pool is spectacular, the meal itself does not linger in my memory. I do remember enjoying the desert, however, and the pastry chef was kind enough to come out in person to take a bow. The staff and service at all venues is exceptional.

Saffron

This is my favorite restaurant at BTM and completely redeems its F&B. They have flown chefs from Thailand to Mayakoba to create contemporary Thai and Asian-inspired dishes. The prawn in spices (sorry, I forgot the exact name, but it is a specialty) was so delicious, I had to return a second evening in a row to have them! Asian cuisine is also a nice break from the plethora of Mexican food offered in Mayakoba and Playa del Carmen.

In-Villa Dining - Barbeque

I did order the in-villa barbeque once during my stays and it is truly a remarkable and memorable experience. It is a bit expensive, I don't remember the exact cost, but it came to several hundred dollars with wine. The chefs bring a cooking grill to your villa and assemble it next to the pool. Then your table is set with linen and fine tableware. Wine is served with appetizers, salads. The main course is a selection of seafood: lobster, prawns, fish, and steak. These are served with several sides including several different salsas and grilled vegetables. The warm breeze, sound of splashing water, and mesmerizing flames from the grill at sunset all came together to make this a dining experience to remember. I do highly recommend it.

Public Areas

Getting Around

If you are at all mobile and not adverse to a little exercise, I absolutely highly recommend asking the concierge to bring bicycles to your villa. They are the easiest and most enjoyable way to get around the resort. My first stay at the Spa Pool Villa was an easy five-seven minute bike ride to the beach. The alternative is to call for a buggy to pick you up, and I'm frankly too impatient for that. On your way back from the beach, I highly recommend you try at least once the hotel motor boat that will take you along the resorts lagoons to the main lobby of the hotel. It is a wonderful new perspective to enjoy the resort. BTM also provides a complementary Escalade house car to take you to other resorts in the Mayakoba complex.

Pools

The main public resort pool is located next to Oriente in the main complex. It is large and was completely empty on every occasion that I visited (just the way I like it!). In a resort where everyone has their own private pool, I imagine the public pool would get less use. It is a lovely place to get some sun and does have a swim-up bar (though it was closed on both my visits). There is also an ocean-front pool at Sands and it has a very nice pool-side service. Cold towels and spritzes of cold water are de rigeur. However, they turned it up a notch by offering ceviche and other amuse buche every hour or so. Delightful and delicious!

Spa

The spa has two notable features: the Rainforest experience and private treatment cabanas. I enjoyed a massage on both visits, and highly recommend the Balinese massage. The therapists are flown in directly from Thailand and are very talented. First you are walked to your treatment room, which looks like a mini-villa on stilts floating above the water. Each treatment begins with a cup of tea while you get a foot bath. A wonderful touch is a bowl of water with orchids and lavender placed on the floor underneath your headrest so that you have something beautiful to enjoy as you lay on your stomach for your massage. After the wonderful treatment, you are given another cup of tea and some fresh fruit to enjoy on a sofa in your treatment "villa".

If you are adventurous, you can try the Rainforest--I did. It is a journey of different water experiences and you begin by walking down a hallway that "rains" from above. You then enter different thermal caves, and showers, culminating in a hydrotherapy pool with colored light. It is a very unique experience, though the price is fairly expensive for a 30 minute visit.

Beach

The beach at BTM is fairly small, but the adjacent Viceroy resort on the beach had stopped construction during my past two visits (?financial problems), so there is more separation from the next resort over, the Rosewood. I had the pleasure of being upgraded on my second visit to a 3-bedroom ocean-front beach villa, and I have to say the beach is an absolutely wonderful place to stay! I have fond memories of napping on the beach at midnight and taking late-night swims. Unfortunately, BTM doesn't have any Spa Pool Villas on the beach, only large family-oriented villas. So couples are out of luck unless they spring for a large 3-bedroom villa. Or you can get upgraded if you are lucky

Mayakoba Resort in General

The Mayakoba resort consists of several luxury resorts in a gated and highly secured complex (there are security guards stationed all over the complex--I felt very safe). There are currently four resorts open or under development: Banyan Tree, Rosewood, Fairmont and Viceroy. The last time I visited Mayakoba, Viceroy was still under construction and it appeared that construction had ceased (though now the Mayakoba website is saying Spring 2010--I'm not holding my breath). I favor the resorts in descending order I have listed them (except Viceroy, which I obviously can't evaluate).

I thought the Fairmont was a zoo, much too crowded in the public areas I visited and I was thoroughly disappointed by the F&B. In fact, there was a huge noisy corporate dance/music party going on when I visited. The Fairmont didn't give me the impression of being a place where I could easily relax and enjoy myself.

The Rosewood is a gorgeous resort and I did enjoy meals at the sushi/tequila bar, Agave (be wary of the mosquitos at night here though, you might get eaten alive if you sit outside). I also enjoyed nice lunches at the beach restaurant (just 10 minutes walk down the beach from BTM) Punta Bonita. My favorite restaurant in all of Mayakoba (even tops Saffron) is Casa del Lago, which serves contemporary European cuisine. I found the chef to be extremely innovative, and he even noted that I had dined two nights in a row and came out to introduce himself!

Mandarin Oriental Resort

With so much to be found inside of Mayakoba, I found only few occasions to venture outward for meals. One of my favorite food memories is dining at Azul restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental in Miami. Somehow, foolishly, I thought that Mandarin Oriental's restaurant Ambar would be in the same league. Unfortunately, it was not even close. The food is extremely overpriced, and the portions were very small. I found the cuisine lacking innovation or flavor. In fact, after "dinner" at Ambar, I went back to Saffron at BTM and had an order of the signature prawns! To their credit, the concierge at BTM did try to advise me not to go to Ambar, but was so diplomatic in her explanation that I didn't take her advice too seriously. Lesson learned!

Conclusion

Mayakoba is an exciting and stunningly beautiful beach resort destination that I can highly recommend. Even for people who are "nervous" about traveling to Mexico, Mayakoba feels (and is) extremely safe. If you want privacy, serene quiet, and large asian-style pool-villa accomodations, BTM can't be beat. I have already made a reservation for Banyan Tree's second Mexican resort in Cabo Marques, which opens in March. I'm hoping for another spectacular warm winter destination!

Amangiri Opening (October 2009)

2009-12-27T16:29:00.000-08:00

Citrine Restaurant, Redwood City, CA

2009-09-26T01:19:00.000-07:00

These fish tacos are not from Ensenada, but they are darn good! Citrine is a chain-looking mostly organic restaurant in a strip mall-type area in Downtown Redwood City. I love the rice and corn--they look so bland but they are full of so much flavor.

Lemon Ricotta Pancakes @ One, Hazelton Hotel, Toronto

2009-09-17T01:17:00.000-07:00

Divine bliss. Nothing more need be said. Worth returning to Toronto just for breakfast. Yum!

One Restaurant, Hazelton Hotel, Toronto, Canada

2009-09-16T01:15:00.000-07:00

Dinner at Bazaar, Los Angeles

2009-09-12T01:08:00.000-07:00

Dinner at Bouley, NYC

2009-08-29T01:03:00.000-07:00

Lunch at the Modern, NYC

2009-08-28T01:00:00.000-07:00

This amuse is quintessential Modern. Simply beautiful. And yummy!
Honeydew melon shavings are so refreshing on a hot August day in NYC.

I would die a thousand deaths for this hazelnut dacquoise.

The top of the dacquoise shimmers with caramel, and is embedded with hazelnuts.

Grammercy Tavern, NYC

2009-08-27T00:58:00.000-07:00

Lunch at Fives, Peninsula Hotel, NYC

2009-08-26T00:55:00.000-07:00

Madera Restaurant, Rosewood Hotel, Stanford, CA

2009-08-26T00:52:00.000-07:00

Sage Restaurant & Wine Bar, Sturgeon Bay, WI

2009-08-06T00:50:00.000-07:00

Sushi Sasa, Denver Colorado, Second Visit

2009-07-15T00:47:00.000-07:00

Sushi Sasa, Denver Colorado

2009-07-07T00:44:00.000-07:00

Alexander's Steak House, San Jose

2009-07-04T00:40:00.000-07:00

Dinner at Perilla, NYC

2009-05-30T01:27:00.000-07:00

Dinner with K. and F. at Harold Dieterle's restaurant, Perilla, in NYC.

Dinner at WD50, NYC

2009-05-27T13:47:00.000-07:00

Scroll down for the desserts. They were the highlight of this meal at WD50. We met the chef in the kitchen afterwards, very friendly guy. Too bad he didn't do too well on Top Chef Masters.

Lunch at the Modern, NYC

2009-05-26T01:24:00.000-07:00

Jöel Robuchon at the Mansion, Las Vegas

2009-03-30T01:59:00.000-07:00

Jean Phillipe Patisserie @ Bellagio, Las Vegas

2009-03-24T13:24:00.000-07:00

This chocolate fountain at Jean Phillipe Patisserie at the Bellagio. Go to gawk. Only in Las Vegas, baby.

Banyan Tree Mayakoba - First Look

2009-03-14T21:09:00.000-07:00

Here are some photos of the new Banyan Tree Mayakoba resort in Mexico. I recently returned from a four-night stay. I will post a complete review soon.

The Spa at Viceroy Miami Opening Review (2/12/09)

2009-02-15T21:52:00.000-08:00

Patrick Huey is the Spa Director at the Viceroy Miami. He came to Viceroy after four years with the Four Seasons at various stations throughout the U.S. He definitely brings the Four Seasons “polish” with him to the Viceroy. He pays attention to the details (hot towel upon arrival to the spa reception desk) and doesn’t except anything less than perfection (ice cold towels next to the steam room, the mirrors in the locker rooms on two walls are perfectly positioned to provide front and back views when combing your hair).

After greeting me upon my arrival, Patrick took me from the hotel lobby to the 15th floor of the hotel. From here, we walked outside, through the outdoor living room, into café Icon and down a hallway that runs through a residential tower. Along the way, we pass a game room with a pool table and card room for hotel guests. Then, just past a floor-length mirror, we turn right and walk down another short hallway.

A VIDEO WALK-THROUGH OF THE SPA

“I like to think of this as going down the rabbit hole,” Patrick said as we took a secondary elevator in one of the residential towers down to the fourteen floor where the spa is located. The spa takes up three floors of the hotel and offers 28,000 square feet of space.

There are separate locker rooms for men and women which contain steam rooms and saunas, as well as a pilates room, party room, movie room, cardio/weight training gym, 14 spa treatment rooms, juice bar, and an impressive “floating library” that spans two stories. The spa is enormous, but the treatment rooms remain cozy and inviting.

I had three treatments at the spa and a personal training session during my three days and two nights at the Viceroy. These included the Antilles body treatment (75 minutes, $215), Energy facial (90 minutes, $235), and their signature raindrop therapy massage treatment (90 minutes, $235). An hour-long personal training session was $90.

TREATMENTS

I started with Viceroy’s Energy facial. My aesthetician Cory was great, really friendly and he is also trained as a massage therapist. The energy facial actually starts with a foot, head and neck massage and is followed by the facial treatment. Remarkable, there is no painful extraction process. I actually fell asleep during the facial, which sounds counterintuitive to its name, but is a reflection of how non-painful and relaxing it can be. My face felt great afterwards. I highly recommend this treatment and I will go back to get it again!

The Antilles body treatment will exfoliate you from head to toe. My aesthetician Carmen started with a massage and then applied sugar and lotion to exfoliate me everywhere. I was worried about feeling sticky afterwards, but this was completely unwarranted. She did recommend that I avoid showering until the next day so that the lotions and potions she work into my skin could take hold. There really was no left over residue and my skin did feel great afterwards.

After the body treatment, I went to the gym for an hour-long weight training session with Axel. Axel is a great trainer, he is knowledgeable and knows how to get the best out of you. Like almost every staff member at the Viceroy, Axel has multiple licenses and is also a massage therapist. Although I hadn’t planned on any more treatments, I thought I would have Axel give me a massage treatment on the day of my check-out before hopping on a transcontinental flight back to California.

Patrick suggested the raindrop therapy massage as it is one of Viceroy’s signature treatments. I will say that I haven’t experienced anything like it before. The hallmark of the treatment is the use of essential oils that produce a unique “cooling” effect on their own, and they produce a “heating” effect when hot towels are applied to your skin. It is a unique sensation that is hard to describe. I found it quite pleasant, but I can see how some people might find it a bit strange at first. Axel is a great massage therapist, and he puts a lot of work into providing the right amount of pressure and his training as a personal trainer gives him special knowledge about which muscles to work on after a hard work out. Although I really enjoyed the raindrop massage, I would probably try something new next time because there are so many other creative treatments on the menu that I want to try.

CONCLUSION

In summary, the Spa at Viceroy Miami is a world-class spa that could easily become a destination for any self-respecting spa junkie. The staff truly care about providing excellence in all aspects of the guest experience and it shows. I will make it a point to return to this spa every time I am in Miami. Indeed, I might even plan future trips to ensure my ability to visit Patrick and his staff on a frequent basis. They are that good!

About this review: This is an unbiased review from a travel and luxury hotel junkie. I pay for these trips entirely myself and I don’t receive any stipend or financial consideration from any of the properties, restaurants or spas that I visit. In fact, I don’t say that I am a “reviewer” at any point during my stays, and I don’t accept “free travel” deals from anybody, ever.

Why do I write reviews: I enjoy writing these reviews because it gives me a chance to explore new hotels and share my impressions with other luxury-minded travelers. I want good hotels to be successful and to help other hotel junkies avoid bad ones.

Pros: Outstanding facilities, incredibly attentive staff, technically skilled therapists, cutting-edge design, wide range of treatments and activities (pilates, cardio, weight training), delicious juice bar with fresh fruit.
Cons: Prices are on the high side (but provides excellent value), no in-spa dining options (a café would be great!), the toilet paper rolls are four inches too low and your knees hit them when you sit on the commode (this is how detailed I have to go to get any negatives on this spa: toilet paper ergonomics issue!).

Viceroy Hotel Miami Opening Review (2/14/2009)

2009-02-14T14:52:00.000-08:00

I cracked open my half-read copy of Danny Meyer’s book, Setting the Table, on my flight back from Miami, having just completed a two-night stay at the Viceroy Hotel in Miami. The New York Times Bestseller provides a peak into the hospitality industry and wisdom Mr. Meyer has gained over the years running some of New York’s finest restaurants.

One of these pearls of wisdom is creating a context that doesn’t exist, but should. With that in mind, Mr. Meyer might ask, “Who ever wrote the rule that a “design-hotel” with whimsical modern flourishes could offer refined luxury?” This seems to be the context on offer at the Viceroy Hotel in Miami. And, for the most part, it works remarkably well.

LOCATION

The Viceroy Miami is part of a large residential condominium complex called ICON at Brickell, in Miami’s downtown area. Two residential towers, and a third hotel tower sit just past the bridge on Miami’s Brickell Avenue. The location would suit business travelers, but would also serve those on holiday who don’t want to deal with the South Beach scene, its loud music, and “spring-break” party atmosphere. Miami’s other off-SOBe luxury property, the Mandarin Oriental is kitty-corner to the Viceroy.

DESIGN

The Viceroy Miami is a hotel where design is built into its DNA. Let’s start with Mr. Phillipe Starck, the ubiquitous über-designer responsible for some of the best (any Starck object on display at the MoMA) and worst (the shameless “la flamme” atop Tokyo’s Asahi Beer Hall that reminds me more of something my dog could make) designs in recent memory. Mr. Starck designed the ICON’s two residential towers and the 28,000 square foot spa. The hotel tower is principally designed by another über-designer, Ms. Kelly Wearstler. Ms. Wearstler is an acclaimed designer in her own right, and star of Bravo’s Top Design television show. Let me be the first one to say that this hotel will be photographed and then published in the design magazines, and that they will rave about Ms. Wearstler's work. It is stunning.

The Starck-Wearstler combination is an intriguing one because the two designers’ styles are so completely opposed. Yet the combination works remarkably well. Starck’s grandly over-the-top public spaces (the outdoor living room) and his 28,000 square foot spa with its simply amazing “floating library” are show stoppers. However, at the end of the day, I would completely prefer to ensconce myself in one of Ms. Wearstler’s elegantly-refined one-bedroom Monarch suites than any over-the-top Starck fantasy room.

Yet, in certain places there are signs of design-over-function. Most notably, the dangerously-placed bronze wall art in the hotel elevators. These beautiful works of art do not function at all in this space. The piece has what seems like hundreds of sharp prickly wires that poke out and could easily snag a lady’s elegant gown or coat for instance, and perhaps even cause bodily harm if one were to lean back on it or get poked in the eye!

FRONT OF HOUSE

Anke, the front-of-house manager called me the day before check in to confirm that the hotel would indeed be opening on time (unlike other launch disasters such as the Palazzo in Las Vegas), and expressed her appreciation of my business and asked if there was anything I needed. I told her I had been staying on South Beach the past two nights and would like to check in as early as possible the next day. Anke suggested I check in early, and visit the spa until my room was ready (a suggestion that led me to spend the next two days in the spa!). She very graciously sent the hotel’s driver, Juan, to pick me up and transfer me the next day at 11AM.

Upon arrival, I was warmly greeted by Mr. Gateau (formerly of Acqualina, Mansion on Turtle Creek, Las Venetas Al Paraiso and the Setai), the hotel’s GM. “Welcome to the Viceroy, you are our first guest to check in!” he said with enthusiasm. Anke, was there at the door to welcome me as well. Patrick, the spa manager walked me through the property and gave me a tour of the public spaces as we headed to the spa. I will post a separate review of the spa at a later date.

WALK THROUGH TOUR OF PROPERTY

Here is a video compilation of video clips as I walked through the property.

CONCIERGE SERVICES

I placed two requests to the concierge. One was for an electronics store (my digital camera had run out of batteries) and the other for a last-minute dining reservation at Mandarin Oriental’s Azul restaurant (it was completely booked for the evening when I had called earlier). The concierge handled both of these requests with aplomb. I was referred to a Target in the nearby midtown shopping center and given the concierge’s card and telephone number in case I got lost. The dining reservation at Azul was more impressive since I had been told multiple times that it was completely booked for Friday evening service. The concierge told me this as well and booked me at café Sambal at the same hotel. However, upon arrival at the restaurant we were given a table at Azul, and we were quickly taken to our window-table overlooking the Miami River. Azul is not to missed, it is a must for any visiting foodie. The Viceroy needs their own Azul: an inspired restaurant that embraces locally-sourced produce with an innovative twist.

FOOD & BEVERAGE

The Viceroy has three dining locations, a fine-dining restaurant (Signature), a casual café (Café Icon), and a club/lounge on the fiftieth floor (Club 50). I tried all three establishments during my visit.

Signature Restaurant has a beautifully-appointed Wearstler-designed dining room with comfortable seating and flattering lighting for the ladies (most important). However, I wish I could say as much for the cuisine, which I found largely uninspiring despite fantastic service. I had a good, but uninspired steak-frite. Not much locally-sourced produce on the menu, and not much of it was inspired. How much more effort would it take to make truly fantastic french fries for instance, by drizzling some truffle oil and shaving black truffles on top accompanied by a fantastic dipping sauce. Mine came rather plainly salted, with ketchup. The table next to me complained about their crème brule being cold and uninspired. In summary, a passable meal could be had here, but I would not return given Miami’s other fantastic dining alternatives. Mr. Florent Gateau, the GM told me they are in the process of bringing Michael Psilakis and his partner Donatella Arpaia from Anthos and Mia Dona in New York. I think that is a fantastic idea! Let’s hope there will be reason to return to Signature after they take the reigns.

Café Icon is a small casual café located in one of the residential towers next to the outdoor pool (which will be the largest in Florida when it is completed). It provides a wide assortment of drinks. Famished after a day at the spa, I stopped by to order a procuitto sandwich and it was delicious. The chips and house-made guacamole are dangerously good.

I stopped by Club 50 on two occasions, once for lunch and again for a quick walk through to check out the evening club scene. The space is well-suited for a small exclusive club. There is a small pool surrounded by lounge chairs, and ancillary seating inside and outside. A limited menu of sandwiches and cold food (sushi) is served.

ROOMS

The Viceroy has several categories of rooms available, from 440 square foot King and double rooms, to the 784 square foot one bedroom Monarch suite that I reserved. They all have one thing in common: outstanding refined elegance in Kelly Wearstler’s designs. My suite came with two flat-screen televisions, a gorgeous and roomy seating area, dining area, and two bathrooms. The bedroom remained warm and cozy despite the generous proportions.

There are however, some kinks in the room to work out. The most obvious is the temporary receiver boxes and exposed wiring trickling down the walls. Poor Kelly would probably have a seizure if she saw these technical setbacks ruining her carefully-crafted rooms. I expect that they should have a permanent fix soon for these unsightly wires and receiver boxes.

My other quip is the “white noise” machine hidden in the corner of the room. I did toss and turn a bit my first night because this machine (which ostensibly is designed to promote sleep) actually sounds like a loud air conditioning fan or duct. It wasn’t until the second evening that I figured out this noise was from a machine when I was tracing wires back to an outlet hidden behind the bed. Which brings me to my last quip: where are the AC outlets? My one big pet peeve is not having enough AC power outlets for my laptop, digital camera, and accessories. Even non-bloggers travel with some plug-in items, and it is nearly impossible to find AC plugs in the bedroom (I do love blogging before bed!). These minor inconveniences were made up for by the presence of free wireless internet in the rooms. The Viceroy is to be congratulated on recognizing wifi as a true luxury amenity that should be provided on a complementary basis: something many other luxury properties can’t seem to grasp!

HOUSEKEEPING

Housekeeping at the Viceroy was spotty during my stay. However, I have had far worse service during hotel openings I have attended. The rooms manager Laura warmly greeted me as I hopped on the elevator my first day. I expect she will get things in order shortly. I found two problems with housekeeping during my stay. The garbage canister was quite full and was not emptied during turndown service my first night, nor was it emptied at morning service. Before I left for dinner on my last evening at the Viceroy, I called the front desk to request turndown service and left the “service please” sign on my door knob. After returning from dinner several hours later, I was surprised to find the room had not been turned down. On the positive side of things, the Viceroy provides a lovely bottle of Voss water during turndown service, which is definitely a luxury amenity in my book that is occasionally overlooked by some properties. I do get thirsty at night and this is a thoughtful touch!

THE WRAP UP

In summary, The Viceroy Miami is an outstanding design-hotel that will attract boutique luxury seekers who appreciate grand over-the-top outdoor spaces, world-class spa facilities, and guest suites defined by refined elegance. The hotel has some kinks to work out, the most significant being the lack of a distinctive signature restaurant. Those seeking direct beach access will also be disappointed with the downtown location (but unless you are attracted to loud booming music until 3AM, its off-SOBe location is an advantage in my mind). I plan for a return visit in late May and will post an update at that time.

Spa: See the spa review which requires its own separate post!

About this review: This is an unbiased review from a travel and luxury hotel junkie. I pay for these trips entirely myself and I don’t receive any stipend or financial consideration from any of the properties, restaurants or spas that I visit. In fact, I don’t say that I am a “reviewer” at any point during my stays, and I don’t accept “free travel” deals from anybody, ever.

Why do I write reviews: I enjoy writing these reviews because it gives me a chance to explore new hotels and share my impressions with other luxury-minded travelers. I want good hotels to be successful and to help other hotel junkies avoid bad ones.

Overall Impression: A luxury design-hotel in Miami’s downtown that offers a world-class spa and over-the-top outdoor public spaces. I look forward to returning in several months after the hotel has had a chance to smooth out its operations.
Pros: Impeccably designed, spa is simply amazing, staff are very well trained, free wireless internet in rooms!
Cons: Restaurant (Signature) needs focus and direction, no beach access.
Opening Day Issues: Television not initially working, cludgy temporary fix involves unsightly exposed wires, housekeeping is inconsistent (no turndown service was performed on one night, despite a call down to the front desk and placing the “service please” notice on the door handle, room key stopped working after 12pm on the day of check-out.

Explora, How Many Ways do I Love Thee?

2008-12-01T23:05:00.000-08:00

There are few places more pristine or beautiful than Torres del Paine national park in Chile. The first time I drove through the park, I passed a beautiful hotel perched next to a waterfall. Our guide said, "That is Explora. It is the best." I vowed that I would return to the park soon and that I would stay at Explora.

Explora is truly luxury personified. Don't get me wrong, you are here to convene with nature, and to take hikes and pursue vigorous (or not) physical activity. But it is done with the absolute highest consideration for the guest and his or her comfort.

The hikes are led by naturalists. I found their knowledge overall good, but some guides were definitely not as good as others. One actually got us lost in the wilderness for half an hour!

But the views are amazing!

And the food is delicious. There is simply nothing else like it in the Patagonian wild.

And the hotel itself is architecturally stunning! It is actually designed to look like a boat.

This was the view out of the window next to "our" table, which we claimed for all our meals.

Posada Los Juncos

2008-11-23T13:11:00.000-08:00

Sunrise from the Lake Room at Posada Los Juncos in Bariloche, Argentina. Today we go fly-fishing. Should be interesting.

Hotel on Rivington Penthouse Suite

2008-10-03T22:14:00.000-07:00

"This is your lucky day, Mr. HeWhoTravels. You've just gotten the upgrade of a lifetime!" said the clerk checking me into the Hotel on Rivington in the Lower East Side of Manhattan. I love this hotel. It is not in the best neighborhood for theatre or opera or shopping on Fifth avenue. But Sugar Sweet Sunshine is just around the corner. And SOHO and Greenwich are not far away either.

I have no idea how I got the upgrade because The Hotel on Rivington (THOR) is not a member of FHR or virtuoso and I didn't book through either. My only guess is that my friend B. knows the rooms manager and may have put in a word for me. All I can say is holy S**T WOW! Apparently in the summer time they throw parties for rock stars in the space, but here in early October, I had it all to myself.

The living room on the lower level has a cool movie screen that drops from ceiling. You can watch tv or movies here at night. OMG. So much fun!

The bedroom is on the second level of the penthouse suite and it has floor to ceiling windows. Light streams in from everywhere!

And yes, this is the soaking tub where the poor trodden masses below can look at your naked self while you look back down at them.

This is the roof deck of the penthouse suite that has a hottub. I soaked in it every night. I didn't care who saw me naked getting in. I love THOR!

Afternoon Tea, Peninsula Hotel, Tokyo

2008-09-14T01:52:00.000-07:00

Afternoon tea at the Peninsula Tokyo. Sigh. Life is good.

2008-07-24T12:48:00.000-07:00

These are my two most reliable travel companions. I never leave home without them. I'm not an LV snob by any means, but they make great bags. The Damier Graphite is very masculine and not at all showy or conspicuous. I'll probably get a Pegase one of these days, the roller bags are just so handy!

L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Paris

2007-10-21T20:20:00.000-07:00

Among my friends who I eat with regularly, B. is known to be difficult to impress. I can't remember the last time I was able to pick a place that really "wowed" him. Would a three Michelin star chef's signature dish, like Guy Savoy's famed artichoke and truffle soup impress B.? "Eh, I couldn't really taste the truffles.." he said. While B. is hard to impress, it is his wife S. who often finds places that please him (and me). I was a bit nervous bringing them to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, after all, it only has one Michelin star. However, I shouldn't have worried, because they both were very happy with our meal.

I think what works best about the restaurant is the concept itself: 40 stools situated at a bar, surrounding an open kitchen. By now we had enough of five-hour dinners in the refined and hushed dining rooms of three star restaurants. L'Atelier let's you get up close and personal with the chefs and the food. You can see them make what you eat. How simple, yet fun that can be!

The other thing that works here is of course, the food. If the French revere their chefs the way Americans revere rock stars, then Joël Robuchon would be the Mick Jagger of France. His swan song, shortly before he retired was the creation of L'Atelier. He has been called the most influential French chef of the post-nouvelle era and the Primus inter pares of Paris' three Michelin star restaurants. A few notable awards like Chef of the Century and Meilleur Ouvrier de France help cement his reputation.

The starters were wonderful. I had pig trotters (I know, sounds terrible, but it had tons of rich flavor and was wonderfully presented) and scallops, while B. had foie gras and S. had eggplant. Things were off to a great start.

The main course was an easy choice as we had already seen it come out of the kitchen before we ordered: the Dover Sole. The butter-smooth goodness of the fish was cut nicely by acid from fresh lemon juice.

But the real show stopper here were the mashed potatoes, oops, "potato purée" as they say over here. I cannot begin to describe the rich buttery, unctuous, smooth, potato goodness in that small bowl. It is one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten. I don't wish to sound hyperbolic here, but this is what I would ask for on my death bed, a bowl of Joël Robuchon potato purée.

As this was B. and S's last meal in Paris, we planned on keeping dinner short: only three hours tonight. So S. and I ordered Chantreuse souflées while B. ordered something called Le Chocolat. It was simple, not too sweet, and just right to end the meal.

What a great way for B. and S. to end their trip to Paris!

Salon du Chocolat Paris

2007-10-19T13:25:00.000-07:00

The Paris transportation strike has wreaked havoc on the City. We managed to get to Montparnasse on line 4 from St. Michel near the Pantheon, but the Ligne 12 was shut down. So we walked, and walked, and walked for over 30 minutes on Rue Giuginard towards the Paris Expo.

Finally, nous sommes arriver!

This place is immense! The Salon occupies two main halls of the Paris Expo which looks to be the size of two football fields. There are hundreds of exhibitor booths, in addition to a performance stage where dance performances highlighting the "history of chocolate" from its Aztec roots, selection of "Miss Cacao", and the daily chocolate fashion show occur. There is also a demonstration hall where Michelin 3-star chefs show you how to create their sensational chocolate dishes, and a lecture hall where various academics and doctors give lectures about chocolate and its putative health benefits. There is also an art gallery section where works of art in the style of New York graffiti are display--all constructed of, you guessed it, chocolate!

But, really we came here for the tastings, and we were not disappointed. Like baby birds to a mother's beak, we chirped "goûter?" repeatedly at each chocolate counter.

Bon Jour Madame, peut-être goûter?

Bien Sur!

Mais Oui!

There were of course almost all of the World's most famous choclatiers in attendance. Michel Cluizel had a booth. His chocolates are renown for having connections to cocoa plantations around the world including Sumatra, Venezuela, Ghana, Java and the Cote D'Ivoire. He believes in ethical and sustained production of cocoa that is fair to the local farmers while preserving the environment. He also eshews artificial additives such as soy lethicin (an emulsifying agent).

Here is a photo of one of the Choclatiers at his booth working on a large chocolate sculpture. Each of the fish took two hours to create and the entire piece involved about two days of work.

However, the highlight of the trip was to obtain the elusive CBS (Caramel-Beurre-Salé), salted butter caramels from the famed Choclatier Monsieur Henri Le Roux. He is believed to have recreated the recipe in the 1970's from an ancient gallic recipe and has since been copied extensively. Yet, he remains the original and best example of the famed French salted caramel (those of you who received the salted caramels from Artisan du Chocolat from me last year must now realize that it was an ersatz version of the Henri Le Roux original!). The company is now owned by a Japanese conglomerate (the Japanese love their French confection!), but Madamoiselle Le Roux (Henri's daughter) still works for the company, and even posed for a picture with me.

And, while we are on the subject of Japanese and Salt, two interesting finds at the show. First, this is the head of the famous Isetan Department store in Japan. He and his colleague went around to each famous Choclatier and obtained their autographs and cards for a poster that they will display in their world-famous Tokyo food halls.

And here is a picture of the many types of salt you can purchase here at the chocolate show, black salt!, as well as grey salt and even green salt! They are all natural forms of the mineral.

Now back to the chocolate. Some particularly exciting finds of the day. Monsieur Jean-Paul Hevin is the hot new comer to the French chocolate scene. He is causing excitement over his unique combinations of cheese and chocolate, unctuous creations that of course pander to the decadent French palate. I think only my friend A. could handle these bad boys, but I will have to insist that we share them.

Next great find of the show is Monsieur Jean Charles Rochoux. He's only had his own atelier in Paris for three years and this is his first Salon du Chocolat. However, mark my words: this is a guy to watch. He may have the most beautiful packaging of any of the Choclatiers at the show, but that is not the reason to buy Monsieur Rochoux's chocolates. His truffles are so rich and concentrated in chocolate goodness that they would melt if you touched them -- he includes a wooden pick in each box for that purpose. The cream in his truffles demands that they are eaten within 10 days (as if they would last that long!). I plan to stop by his shop off the Rue de Renne in the 6th arrondisement (but only after the darn traffic strike is over and the metro is working again)!

Of course, the grand damme of French chocolate, Maison du Chocolat, cannot be forgotten. After all, the founder Robert Linxe all but created the concept of enrobing ganache to create the modern chocolate creations that are now widely enjoyed. With shops in New York, and around the world, it is no wonder that they represent classical French chocolate to perfection for most people. For me, its a little bit, N'import de Quoi as they say in French (whatever?). If I can buy them in New York, why should I lug them back from Paris?

I'll mention one final discovery of the day: Foie Gras and chocolate. Could there be any better savory chocolate combination? Although I didn't go for it, many people were buying foie gras and chocolate baguette sandwiches!

Okay, but after all the samples, what else is there to do? Well, sit your derrier down and watch Patrick Bertron of Relais Bernard Loiseau (3 Michelin Stars) make Croquant de Chocolat Tainon, caramel de fruits secs a la sauge, ganache et coulis aux fruits de la passion -- got that?

The free tasting sample was even better than looking at the finished product. My friend B. didn't like it though, but his wife S. seemed to enjoy it. We all thought the chocolate coated chicken that was also demonstrated was a bit of a stretch though.

Of course, after all that food, we had to rest. So we went to the dance performance area and watched (i.e. slept) through and interpretive dance history of chocolate followed by a selection of the day's Miss Cacao (the semifinalists from each day go on to compete in a finale at the end of the show). Participants are selected from the visitors to the show, and are dressed in costumes from chocolate-producing countries.

Drum roll please...Miss Cacao semifinalist is...

We nap for another hour until the day's final extravaganza: the Chocolate Fashion show. We have already seen some of the chocolate dresses being made during the day:

And even photographed some of the ones on display:

And the show-stopping finale piece by Maison du Chocolat with a chocolate globe headpiece (not shown here).

The show starts with a bizzare Can Can military tatoo type opening number (complete with chocolate pasties): (video to come soon!)

Then the first model appears:

And my camera dies. Sorry, you will have to wait for photos from B. and S.'s cameras on the show. But let's just say it was very entertaining!

At that my friends, wraps up my coverage of Salon du Chocolat 2007 from Paris. I hope you have enjoyed it as much as we did attending the event! More soon. Now, I'm off to spend another day in Paris!!

How the French Stay so Thin

2007-10-17T22:28:00.000-07:00

I now realize how the French can eat all those baguettes and foie gras yet stay so thin. They walk everywhere. This is only my second day in Paris and I have never walked so much in my life (except maybe when I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro)! In fact, I've walked so much I broke my shoe!

Yes, the sole of my shoe peeled off because of all the pavement I have been hitting. I wandered into BHV, a giant department store at the Hotel de Ville and was directed to this little stand in the basement: a guy there makes keys and fixes shoes while you wait. I love how Parisienne's walk so much that this happens often enough that someone can make a living fixing shoes while you wait! That or it is a sad commentary on our "throw away" culture in the US!